John Race

Age: 40, Years climbing: 23, Hometown: Leavenworth, WA, Favorite product: MIURA VS


Do you clip bolts, plug cams, stack pads, or crush ice?

I try to do it all, and also have a skiing problem. My guiding has me working full-time in all climbing disciplines.

How long have you been an athlete with La Sportiva?

2 years.

What are some of your lifetime climbing goals?

Any route on Mt. Huntington, a few honest 5.12's before I get too old, more long routes in the Fisher Towers, and too die old.

Do you have a claim to fame?

I am the guy who has done 20 Denali climbs and still knows about 4 people in AK. I am either not good enough or not bad enough to be famous.

Do you have any vices?

Most, in rotation.

What makes you tick as a climber and in the real world?

I am super aware of having a very limited amount of time and fear looking back and wishing I had done more.

What drives you to climb? The money? The groupies? The fame? What?

Climbing realigned my life when I was young. I have been to some of the coolest places on the planet with some of the best people alive.

What is your favorite movie?

The Life Aquatic.

Do you have any nicknames? Explain:

JR - I worked with about 6 guys named John and someone started calling me this and it stuck.

What’s the longest you’ve gone without sleep? Why?

60 hours? I guide 8000 meter peaks and above about 25,000 I don't really sleep.

If you had to be named after one of the 50 states, which would it be?


What did you have for lunch yesterday?

I have no idea. Usually whatever is in my pack, which tends towards junk I am afraid.

If you could hook up a thought monitor to your head, would you see pictures, hear words or would music be playing?


What really scares you about climbing?

Objective hazards....rock fall, ice fall, things you can't control or predict.

If your life was made into a movie, what would it be called?


Where would you live if it could be anywhere in the world?

Moab, don't tell my friends in Leavenworth, WA.

Have no food or have no gasoline?

Gasoline of course.

Do you wish you had sexier feet?

You must have never seen my feet.