La Sportiva NEWS
Welcome to the La Sportiva NEWS page. Below you will find breaking news about upcoming events, athlete accomplishments, contests, and more. Feel free to browse by date by scrolling down the page or use the Find function of your browser (usually "ctrl+f" on PC or "command+f on Mac) to type in keywords and search the entire page for a specific article.
July 2014 NEWS
June 2014 NEWS
- 06/30/14 Update from JSTAR
- 06/24/14 VIDEO: Meagan Martin on ANW!
- 06/23/14 McColl 2nd (twice) at World Cup
- 06/17/14 New Website for Alpenglow Exp.
- 06/16/14 Honnold on Nightline
- 06/09/14 VIDEO: Hazel Findlay on E9
- 06/05/14 Emily Harrington Sends the Proj!
- 06/04/14 VIDEO: Barkely 100 is Brutal!
- 06/02/14 JSTAR Joins the 5.15 Club!
- 06/01/14 Paige Claassen Just Did It!!!
May 2014 NEWS
- 05/28/14 VIDEO: Last of the Dirtbags?
- 05/27/14 Help get Thomo to the World Cup!
- 05/19/14 Mayo Does New Route in AK
- 05/07/14 Mountain Cup Results Updated!
- 05/06/14 VIDEO: Alpine Mentors in the Alps
- 05/05/14 VIDEO: Leavitt's New Roof Crack!
- 05/02/14 Shannon Joslin: Overtraining
- 05/01/14 Steve House Training Article
April 2014 NEWS
- 04/29/14 INTERVIEW: Mark Kogelmann
- 04/20/14 Training Beta Podcast with JSTAR
- 04/08/14 Leslie Timms Joins Team 5.14!
- 04/02/14 VIDEO: Rock & Rave 2014
- 04/01/14 Active Junky goes Trail Running!
March 2014 NEWS
- 03/28/14 Vote for HERA!!!
- 03/26/14 VIDEO: El Salto, Mexico Profile
- 03/20/14 VIDEO: 25min with Honnold...
- 03/20/14 PHOTOS: Power of Four SkiMo
- 03/12/14 Mayo Onsights M10 Trad!!!
- 03/12/14 New Book by Steve House!
- 03/11/14 VIDEO: D Woods FAs The Nest (V15)
- 03/10/14 Mountain Cup Results Updated
- 03/06/14 VIDEO: Bushido Shoe Review
- 03/04/14 VIDEO - ABS Highlights - MEN'S
- 03/04/14 VIDEO - ABS Highlights - WOMEN'S
February 2014 NEWS
- 02/28/14 Climbing Apparel has Arrived!
- 02/28/14 VIDEO: LA B. Grand Opening
- 02/26/14 Earth Play Retreats Photo Contest!
- 02/25/14 Mountain Cup Results Updated!
- 02/24/14 La Sportiva all over the ABS Podium!
- 02/24/14 VIDEO: ABS Nationals Final Round
- 02/20/14 Hardest Mixed Line in the US!?
- 02/19/14 Claassen 5.13+ FA at 13,000'
- 02/18/14 Robinson FA's V14 in Hueco
- 02/06/14 VIDEO: A Day in the Life of Honnold
- 02/05/14 Training for the New Alpinism
- 02/04/14 VIDEO: Horst Family Ep. 2 - Safety
- 02/01/14 VIDEO: Horst Family Ep. 1 - How?
January 2014 NEWS
- 01/30/14 Will Mayo - When the Fang Falls
- 01/27/14 Siegrist and Kinder on Fire!
- 01/22/14 Katie Lambert in Spain
- 01/21/14 Beth Rodden - Baby on the Way!!!
- 01/15/14 VIDEO: AMGA Guide Exam
- 01/13/14 VIDEO: Claassen Sends 14a in India
- 01/09/14 Life on Ice: Steve House
- 01/08/24 VIDEO: Ouray Ice Park
December 2013 NEWS
- 12/26/13 Haley Summits Two New Peaks
- 12/19/13 New Mixed Route in the NE
- 12/17/13 Mayo is Nat Geo's Photo of the Week
12/06/13 D Woods Sends Meadowlark Lemon
Daniel Woods has dispatched the hardest boulder problem in Las Vegas in a matter of minutes!
"Here in Las Vegas for the next couple of weeks, sampling some of the best sandstone in the U.S. It is nice to escape the frigid conditions of CO and throw down in the desert. Yesterday I was able to tick Vega's hardest boulder problem, Meadowlark Lemon (v14) in a quick 30 minute session. This marble cake looking feature has both beauty and power, making it the full package line." - D Woods
What's next for Daniel in the Vegas area now that Meadowlark Lemon is under his belt? Stayed tuned for the next few weeks to find out.
Photo by Cam Maier
November 2013 NEWS
11/21/2013 Mayo RPs Superfortress (M13) in Vail, CO
Breaking news from Will Mayo himself:
"I finally sent that linkup in Vail today. It's about 45 meters in length and is protected by 20 bolts. The line begins on the start of Amphibian (M9) and continues straight up into the middle section of Red Beard (M12). After the six foot dead point move through the roof on Red Beard it branches right on single-tooth hooks and slightly downward to just below the lip of the roof onto The Flying Fortress (M13), which is probably the technical crux of the line, involving an extremely long reach rightward and downward and a strenuous release of the upper tool onto a figure 4. I have a 6' 6" wing span and it was at my full extension. The line then works right across the lip of the roof on good holds through the crux section of Red Bull and Vodka (M11) and continues right with an acrobatic iron cross move into a single-tooth hook in a corner seam in order to continue right across the last few dry tooling moves of King Cobra (M11) and to finally swing out onto the free-hanging icicle of The Fang and up to the top of the amphitheater.
These routes are hard to rate. It has more hard dry tooling than The Flying Fortress; but, the crux of that route, along with it's neighbor Red Beard, is actually the one arm lock off moves at the top in one to two inch thick ice; so, I'm proposing rating Superfortress and The Flying Fortress both the same: M13. Neither route has been repeated; so, consensus there is not. Regardless, it's an exciting and beautiful sport mixed training route!
Next, I'm planning to set a line that will traverse the underside of the roof in it's entirety much akin to Robert Jasper's test piece in Eptigen, Switzerland: Ironman (M14). We shall see how it unfolds. I have never felt stronger; I think devoting the past three years to sport climbing and gym climbing has taken my mixed climbing to the next level. I can't explain it otherwise."
- 11/20/13 Video: Spectre 4-buckle Ski Boot
- 11/18/13 Women Who Dare - Glanc & Sorkin
- 11/15/13 How to Climb V10!
- 11/13/13 JSTAR Tears it up in the New
- 11/12/13 FMG 2014 Courses Announced!
- 11/11/13 Get your Tickets to Exposure Vol. 1
- 11/06/13 Mayo Catches up with Alpinist
- 11/04/13 D Woods Sends Hardest Yet
- 11/01/13 Welcome aboard Mark Kogleman!
October 2013 NEWS
10/31/13 Robinson Slays Jaws II (5.15a)
10/30/2013 Mayo Onsights Silhouette (M9, WI6+R)
On October 29th, Will Mayo onsighted the first ascent of Silhouette on the Black Wall of Mt. Evans with Ben Collett. Says Will, "It was my first traditional M9 onsight and perhaps the finest traditional mixed climb that I have ever established. Clean protection was used throughout the climbing; pitons were needed at the belays. The climb is situated at 13,000' so altitude is a factor and the approach takes about two hours from the car. One must rappel down the northern side of the Black Wall to access the route, which adds to the commitment. The dry tooling is divided into two sections both are overhanging hand and finger cracks requiring jamming, pick and tool torques and suspect hooks. The icicles are wild! The second one requires a 30' runout and a gentle touch and a cool head on the dry slender hanging portion. This amazing route is perhaps my traditional mixed climbing career high point."
- 10/29/13 VIDEO: Spotlight on JP Ouellett
- 10/29/13 VIDEO: Shoe Wars!!!
- 10/16/13 Matt Wilder's New Mt. Evans Route
- 10/05/13 VIDEO: Flemming on Devil's Tower
- 10/05/13 REVIEW: Chelsea Rude's Testarossas
September 2013 NEWS
- 09/19/13 Berry Goes Big in WY
- 09/17/13 VIDEO: Jon Glassberg in Russia
- 09/16/13 VIDEO: Honnold Profile by NPF
- 09/14/13 Timms' New FA is Above the Clouds
- 09/12/12 VIDEO: Honnold's Live True Episode
- 09/09/13 More 5.14s in the Fins for JSTAR
August 2013 NEWS
- 08/30/12 Katie Lambert in Tuolumne
- 08/29/13 Happy Birthday for JSTAR!
- 08/28/13 VIDEO: Training with AJ
- 08/26/13 Help Kickstart the Lost Mtn. Film!
- 08/22/13 Caldwell Frees Dunn-Westbay (5.14)
- 08/14/13 VIDEO Woods Sends Wheel of Life
- 08/13/13 Spectre Wins Editor's Choice!
- 08/13/13 AUDIO: Dempster on NG Radio
- 08/12/13 VIDEO: Claassen in South Africa
- 08/05/13 VIDEO: JSTAR Athlete Spotlight
July 2013 NEWS
- 07/31/2013 VIDEO: Singleton, Shattered Glass
- 07/24/2013 JSTAR Almighty!!!
- 07/23/2013 Mountain Cup Results Updated!
- 07/20/2013 100,000 Vertical Feet!? Honnold.
- 07/15/2013 JSTAR Sends Moonshine 5.14d!
- 07/11/2013 Blake Breaks Record at Loon Mtn.
- 07/08/2013 VIDEO: Matt Wilder in the New
- 07/06/2013 Digital Warfare for Claassen
07/06/2013 Paige Claassen FAs Digital Warfare (5.14-)
Paige Claassen has made the first ascent of the open project, “Digital Warfare”, weighing in at a solid 5.14-. Digital Warfare is found on the WOW Prow in Free State, South Africa and is the 8th climb to be established on the cliff line. The line was bolted in 2012 and left as an open project by South African developer Andrew Pedley and is considered the crown jewel of the area. This is Paige’s 5th 5.14 ascent and her first FA.
Paige is on the “Marmot Lead Now Tour” and will be attempting a significant climbing challenge in 12 countries over the next 12 months to raise $120,000 for charity. With each accomplishment Paige will generate media attention and drive traffic to her fundraising efforts to help raise money for women and children around the globe.
Connect and donate
June 2013 NEWS
06/20/2013 Rachel Meyers Sends Kind Traverse (V11)
La Sportiva Athlete Rachel Meyers has dispatched a classic Colorado testpiece in Rocky Mountain National Park while on family vacation in nearby Estes Park. The Kind Traverse (V11) navigates small crimpers and technial footwrok in a beautiful alpine setting. Says Rachel, "I'm having so much fun in Colorado! The views are breathtaking and I'm so lucky to be in such a beautiful place. I've had a blast climbing and can't wait for the second half to be even better! Today, I sent and celebrated with some delicious ice cream. GREAT day!"
- 06/20/2013 VIDEO: Daniel in South Africa
- 06/18/2013 Sportiva Sweeps Mt. Washington
- 06/11/2013 Capel 1st Female at SD100!
- 06/10/2013 Folcik Wins Cayuga 50!!!
- 06/07/2013 VIDEO: Gang Life to Big Walls
- 06/05/2013 VIDEO: Joe Kinder on Crimping
- 06/01/2013 KickStarter: Expedition Andes!
May 2013 NEWS
- 05/30/2013 Happy Birthday Beth Rodden!
- 05/29/2013 VIDEO: Honnold - Solar Powered!
- 05/28/2013 VIDEO: Pringle on Jumbo Love
- 05/27/2013 Mountain Cup Results Updated!
- 05/22/2013 Blake Breaks Course Record!
- 05/21/2013 VIDEO: Smileys on Japanese Rt.
- 05/17/2013 BLOG: Thomo talks World Cup
- 05/10/2013 VIDEO: Bridge of Ashes (V15)
- 05/09/2013 VIDEO: Kellogg Trains for Everest
- 05/08/2013 INTERVIEW: Athlete Justin Ricks
- 05/07/2013 Video: Glassberg in WA
- 05/06/2013 Andy Ames Wins at Greenland!
- 05/06/2013 Video: Randy Leavitt FA in CA
- 05/05/2013 Video: Paige C. on Ted Talk
- 05/02/2013 Video: American Gangster
April 2013 NEWS
- 04/29/2013 Berry Finishes the Final Frontier
- 04/26/2013 Dempster on Adventure Journal
- 04/25/2013 VIDEO: Rachel Meyers in the US
- 04/22/2013 Ames and Tiva Repeat at Canine!
- 04/21/2013 VIDEO: Ethan Sends Era Vella!
- 04/16/2013 VIDEO: Paige on "To Bolt..."
- 04/11/2013 VIDEO: Kinder Talks Smearing
- 04/06/2013 INTERVIEW: 8a.nu with Eric Horst
- 04/05/2013 Climberism Interview with JP
- 04/02/2013 Randy Leavitt talks with Epic TV!
March 2013 NEWS
- 03/28/2013 A Paige Added to History!
- 03/21/2013 Winter Splitters for PeeWee
- 03/21/2013 Pat Goodman on Gun Control
- 03/20/2013 Committed Project Needs Help!
- 03/19/2013 Jon Glassberg in Vegas
- 03/18/2013 Video: 5.14 at 10 Years Old!
- 03/15/2013 Tommy & Alex do 4 Big Walls...
- 03/14/2013 Sportiva LIVE Updated!
- 03/14/2013 Video: The Dirty South!
- 03/13/2013 Matt Wilder Heads to the New
- 03/12/2013 5.14 at 10 Years Old!?
- 03/07/2013 Ketch Up with Thomo Pidgeon
- 03/04/2013 Video: Matt Wilder at ABS!
- 03/01/2013 New M12/13 in Hyalite Canyon!
February 2013 NEWS
- 02/26/2013 Rock N' Rave was Massive!!!
- 02/20/2013 Paul Robinson Wins the Rodeo!
- 02/20/2013 Video: Hueco Rodeo Highlights
- 02/16/2013 New Course Record in Moab!
- 02/13/2013 Big Winter for Matt McCormick
- 02/06/2013 Michigan IceFest Was a Hit!
- 02/01/2013 Video: Woods Sends Altruist (8B)
January 2013 NEWS
- 01/31/2013 Video: 2012 UTMEX Race
- 01/30/2013 Wilkinson The Dare Devil
- 01/28/2013 Video: Tommy Caldwell Spotlight
- 01/25/2013 Video: Brooke Raboutou!
- 01/23/2013 La Sportiva Ladies Fire the Fitz!
- 01/08/2013 Woods Sends Witness the Fitness!
01/07/2013 Mega Mixed! Will Mayo FA's Phobophobia
They finally did it! Pat Delaney, John Freeman, Will Gadd and La Sportiva Athelte Will Mayo have set and climbed the World's Largest Sport Mixed Cave! Their project of three years, the giant cave in the Hydrophobia Cirque in the Waiparous, Alberta, has finally gone down. It's five pitches, about 64 bolts including belay anchors, has fixed bosun chairs at all stations, and is rigged with fixed draws. Will Gadd and Will Mayo have each sent the route single push, individually leading all of the pitches from the ground to the top without falls. The ratings are tentatively: M9, M11, M8, M9+, M7; though concensus is TBD. Gadd might want to rate it 10+. Regardless, this is one of the most impressive caves to go up in recent memory.
- 01/04/2013 Ballinger's Winter Film Series
December 2012 NEWS
12/19/2012 Joe Kinder Sends the Proj!
You may have seen the video already; a beautiful piece put together by Joe himself depecting the Spanish lifestyle and some amazing sport climbing. A few weeks later, Joe has finished his dream project.
"Seleccio was a process of perfecting beta, breaking holds, getting bouted day after day, but still keeping a good attitude and an intent to send. The route never felt above me, just really hard. Hard to link, hard to see through, and really hard to send."
- 12/17/2012 Video: Joe Kinder in Spain #2!
- 12/14/2012 Video: Joe Kinder in Spain #1!
- 12/13/2012 PeeWee Sends the Proj!
- 12/06/2012 Lambert: At Dawn We Ride
- 12/05/2012 Video: Hasta La Vista - Ethan!
November 2012 NEWS
- 11/29/2012 JStar Sends Mission: Impossible!
- 11/28/2012 Pure Spirit Award Announced
- 11/26/2012 Videos: Life on the Dawn Wall
- 11/21/2012 VIdeo: Matt Wilder in Peru
- 11/15/2012 Copp Dash Inspire Award
- 11/09/2012 McColl Wins at PanAmericans!
- 11/09/2012 Video: Jason Kehl - Squamish
- 11/06/2012 Vasya Wins the Midnight Burn!
11/06/2012 Vasya Wins the Midnight Burn
This just in:
La Sportiva Athlete Vasya Vorotnikov just took 1st place in one of the most competitive events on the East Coast: Phill Rock Gym's The Midnight Burn.
- 11/05/2012 Janelle Smiley Interviewed!
October 2012 NEWS
10/29/2012 Chelsea Rude Onsights The Madness (5.13c)
La Sportiva Athlete Chelsea Rude has reported a seldom acheived onsight ascent of the Madness at the Motherlode this past week, adding yet another tick to a great season for her at the Red. Check out Chelsea's blog for more updates about her climbing season.
- 10/17/2012 Video: Vasya wins Dark Horse #1
- 10/11/2012 24HHH Recap!
- 10/09/2012 Robinson on Fire in Austria!
- 10/03/2012 Hoberg Dominates the Gun Show
September 2012 NEWS
- 09/20/2012 Kinder's Hardest Route yet!
- 09/20/2012 Video: JStar sends 5.14 in Idaho
- 09/17/2012 JStar Enters the Dragon, 5.14 trad
- 09/09/2012 Daniel Woods wins the Battle
- 09/05/2012 Leavitt on the Enormocast
August 2012 NEWS
- 08/25/2012 Washington Pass Guidebook!
- 08/24/2012 Video: PeeWee FA in Canada
- 08/24/2012 Haley Solo in BC Mountains
- 08/21/2012 Wilkinson Talks Alpine Bivies
- 08/15/2012 New Route for Joe Kinder
- 08/08/2012 Interview: Honeymoon is Over
- 08/01/2012 FA for La Sportiva Athletes
July 2012 NEWS
- 07/30/2012 Video: Leavittation
- 07/22/2012 McColl 2nd at World Cup!
- 07/17/2012 11-year old Climbs 8c!?
- 07/06/2012 Leslie Tims helps support OAC
- 07/03/2012 Anker on top of the World
- 07/02/2012 Andy Ames Wins at A-Basin!
- 07/01/2012 Sportiva wins Big at Marin Ultra
June 2012 NEWS
- 06/18/2012 New Speed Record on El Cap!
- 06/09/2012 McColl 2nd Place at World Cup
- 06/07/2012 J Star Establishes New Route
- 06/01/2012 Nik Berry Sends The Prophet
May 2012 NEWS
- 05/30/2012 Video: Lowering Your Partner
- 05/28/2012 "On the Circuit" Movie Available
- 05/26/2012 Ozturk & Wilkinson go Big in AK!
- 05/23/2012 McColl 3rd at Innsbruck!
- 05/23/2012 Sportiva Dream Team in Yosemite
- 05/18/2012 100 Pitches in Eldo - A Day's Work
- 05/14/2012 Video: Carbondale Short Bus!
- 05/07/2012 Andy Ames Wins Greenland 8Mi
- 05/01/2012 Delap Reviews the Solution
April 2012 NEWS
- 04/24/2012 Fast 10 Seconds too Slow
- 04/24/2012 Video: Cameron Horst Sends Big!
- 04/23/2012 Gallogly Wins Monument Peak!
- 04/20/2012 McColl Wins Canadian Nationals
- 04/19/2012 Robinson Repeats Paint it Black!
- 04/14/2012 Robinson in Chevy Commercial!
- 04/10/2012 Bryant's Hell's Hills Race Report
04/09/2012 Sportiva Men Sweep Nationals in Colorado
La Sportiva Athletes Vasya Vorotnikov, Dylan Barks and Daniel Woods took 1st through 3rd repectively at Saturday's SCS Nationals in Boulder, CO. Vortotnikov, fresh off a 4-month shoulder injury perfomred exceptionally, reaching the high point in finals. Everyone was amped up and the competition was fierce throughout the evening but as always, the comraderie was top notch and everyone enjoyed the challenging routes. Louder Than 11 posted a great wrap-up of the event which can be viewed here.
Congrats again to Vasya for an impressive victory and to all La Sportiva Athletes who participated in SCS Nationals including Matty Hong who was 5th overall and Chelsea Rude who placed 4th for women.
- 04/09/2012 Vasya Wins SCS Nationals!
- 04/03/2012 Video: Wilkinson FA in Himalaya
- 04/02/2012 5.14 at Age 10!!!
- 04/02/2012 Video: Chong Sends Ghost King
March 2012 NEWS
- 03/23/2012 Running 100 Miles a Day!?
- 03/22/2012 Gildersleeve Wins Tarawera 100K
- 03/21/2012 Nik Berry Sends China Doll, etc!
- 03/19/2012 Daedalus sees 3rd Ascent
- 03/12/2012 Best. Bouldering day. Ever.
- 03/01/2012 Daniel Woods "Paints it Black"
- 03/01/2012 Foley Sends Silent Menace (14c)
February 2012 NEWS
- 02/27/2012 Daniel Woods Wins ABS Nationals
02/22/2012 J Star Sends His Hardest Yet!
It's been a long battle on this one but La Sportiva Athlete Jonathan Siegrist has finally sent his project outside Las Vegas, NV. Siegrist states "The route is incredible, unique and gnarly hard." He spent the majority of this past month climbing on it. siegrist has not yet decided on a grade but notes that is certainly his hardest to date. He is calling the route, 'Le Reve'.
- 02/22/2012 Injuries Blog by Beth Rodden
- 02/17/2012 Rutherford Climb New Route
- 02/10/2012 McCormick on Cannon Cliff
- 02/09/2012 Ouellet Accepts Pure Spirit
January 2012 NEWS
- 01/10/2012 Anderson & Nelson Champions!
December 2011 NEWS
12/26/2011 Mayo FA's New Mixed Line, M13
On Christmas Day La Sportiva Athlete Will Mayo climbed a new line in the Rigid Designator Amphitheater as the day's warm-up. It consequently also served as the warm-down. It was his fifth try on what is a variation finish to Red Beard which, despite a number of recent attempts, remains unrepeated as of this writing. The Flying Fortress - B17 (M13) ascends the roof between Red Beard and Red Bull and Vodka and involves a seven foot deadpoint out the roof, a three foot lockoff move to a tenuous hook to reach a good hold beneath the upper overhang and another lockoff sequence from another insecure edge at the lip of the 'hang to work for placements in 1" to 2" verglas. Then, 30 meters up the climb, one must do a final series of powerful lockoffs on tools tapped into verglas to get one's feet up onto the ice and reach the anchor. As with Red Beard, the route is a full 35 meters in length. This route may be the hardest non-manufactured mixed climb in North America. Unlike The Game (M13), for instance, in the Cineplex in Alberta, on which one of the cruxes hinges on a hold that was "made", The Flying Fortress is au naturale.
The name is a tribute to Mayo's late Great Uncle Tom who was a B17 pilot that was shot down in occupied France in WWII (and miraculously survived); also, the route is protected with 17 Bolts (the ice is far too thin for ice protection at the top).
- 12/23/2011 Video: Doyle on Loaded Direct
- 12/10/2011 Mayo Climbs Red Beard - M12
- 12/09/2011 Jenn Flemming Video - Fraid Line
November 2011 NEWS
- 11/29/2011 What!? Daniel Woods Flashes V15
- 11/21/2011 McColl Wins Kranj World Cup!
- 11/21/2011 The Stars Align with Leslie Timms
- 11/16/2011 Rodden sends Kauk Slab - video
11/15/2011 Sean McColl Sends Big Paw, etc.
La Sportiva Athlete Sean McColl is on a tear in Switzerland. After his impressive ascent of New Base Line (V14) Sean has since sent several more testpieces in the area. To name a few Sean nabbed:
Big Paw (8C) 6th ascent
Delusion of Grandeur (8B) 2nd try
Frank's Wild Years (8A+) flash
Arete with a pocket (8A) flash
And he's not done yet. Sean has some time left and is showing no signs of stopping now. We're excited to see what else Seam puts together before he leaves. Stay tuned for more updates and look for Sean McColl's feature on Sportiva LIVE in the coming days. Rock & Ice has a nice little article about Sean's tear as well.
- 11/10/2011 McColl drops New Base Line
- 11/09/2011 Team ABC on Fox News!
- 11/08/2011 Tommy on the Wall Day 11
- 11/07/2011 Gildersleeve 2nd at Whistler 50
- 11/02/2011 Tommy on the Wall - Day 5
October 2011 NEWS
- 10/31/2011 Tommy on the Wall - Day 1
- 10/31/2011 Silver Medal for Sean McColl
- 10/29/2011 Beth Rodden Goes to Hollywood
- 10/28/2011 Tommy on the Wall - Preparing
- 10/19/2011 Daniel Woods The Force!
- 10/19/2011 Steve House Apera Commercial
- 10/18/2011 Ballinger Skis Manaslu!!!
- 10/18/2011 Timy Fairfield Clinic Coming Up
- 10/17/2011 Ozturk, Anker FA the Shark's Fin
- 10/11/2011 First Ascent of Hassan Peak
- 10/02/2011 Alex Honnold on 60 Minutes
10/01/2011 Kamitses FA's 5.14 Trad Route
La Sportiva Athlete PeterKamitses has established a new trad route in a new area of the Dacks calledSilver Lake. The area waspreviously closed to climbing as it was underlease by a logging company for years but the lease ran out a few years agoso it is now open to the public. Kamitses estimates there may be ahundred crags spread out over the huge mountain ?ridge. Most of thefeatures are vertical and slabby save for one outstanding 30 degree overhangingwall atop the first ?pitch of the slab. The stunning feature can beseen from miles away; one 100-foot twin crack system splitting the wall. The route was not previously an aidline, it just sat there unclimbed.
Kamitses worked theproject last year but it was too wet to lead. Earlier this year hecame agonizingly close the day before Hurricane Irene struck and thenwaited for weeks for the route to dry. It was still too wet butKamitses succeeded in getting it dry by stuffing towels and blow torching therock.
Four days of lead attempts and failuresfollowed as Kamitses placed all gear on lead each go. The crux is a10-move compression boulder problem slapping slopey sidepulls up twin cracks,runout due to the difficulty being too great to stop to place gear. Peter reports he cam came "a bit too close to hitting the slab a fewtimes" so he moved the belayer above belay anchor of the first pitch to becloser to first ?piece of gear and to keep less rope out. EventuallyPeter was able to find a way to place a piece of gear two moves into the cruxwhich made for shorter falls. Shorter falls equaled a more relaxedclimber and therefore, the send! Peter Kamitses sent the route on the perfect breezy, 50-degree day ofSeptember 18th and due to the nature of the crux named it "OppositionalDefiance Disorder" (5.14a).
September 2011 NEWS
09/22/2011 Joe Kinder Joins the Bad Girls Club
After bolting a monster route in the Wicked Cave at Rifle Mountain Park and leaving it to the masses as an unfinished open project for the season, Joe Kinder returned this fall and completed what he started. Dubbed the "Bad Girls Club project" by Kinder, fellow La Sportiva athlete Matty Hong snatched the FA earlier this year and kept the name out of respect to Kinder. Jonathan Siegrist sent the proj quickly after Matty Hong giving Joe the 3rd ascent of this monumental route. As it stands now Bad Girls Club has been give 5.14d and is possibly the most difficult line in the canyon.
Joe Kinder himself reports, "I am super stoked to have completed my project. Goals in climbing are probably the most satisfying endeavors to complete and now Bad Girls Club is finished. Grabbing the last hold was an all out effort as I missed it, clawed the wall and snagged it just before the window of opportunity closed. The route never got easier, it stayed heinously hard, and took a great focus to execute each section correctly and in a way that wouldn't destroy my power for the exit crux. I am so happy I climbed it... now I need another project!!! HA! I guess that's the name of the game huh?"
Major congrats to Joe for raising the bar in both his physical ability and high-class attitude throughout the entire process. We look forward to seeing what's next!
- 09/22/2011 Climbing Terms Video Contest
- 09/22/2011 Matt Wilder Slideshow Tour
- 09/19/2011 TransRockies Race Report
- 09/16/2011 La Sporitva Southeast Demo Tour
09/14/2011 BouldeRave at Urban Rocks 10/7/2011
CHATTANOOGA, TN– Urban Rocks Climbing Gym is hosting the second annual BouldeRave presented byLa Sportiva. BouldeRave is Chattanooga’s Cosmic Climbing Celebration - a free climbing event with activities for climbers and non-climbersalike. BouldeRave will be the perfect chance for the entire community to try out rock climbingfree at Urban Rocks Gym. Cosmic Climbing is similar to late-night cosmicbowling: a vivid light show accompanied by high-energy music, all whileclimbing on plastic neon holds. In addition to the climbing, the event willfeature a climbing gear demo, raffle prizes (benefitting The Trustfor Public Land), an exciting speed climbing competition, pre-registration forthe Triple Crown Bouldering Series, various climbing games and an after-party fueledby Nashville DJ, This is ART.
BouldeRave willbe host to a number of different activities and contests. Visit www.UrbanRocksGym.com for additional eventinformation or talk to an Urban Rocks staff member at 423-475-6578.
- 09/12/2011 Spearfish Canyon Guidebook!
- 09/09/2011 Wilkinson FA's Saser Kangri II
- 09/08/2011 Timy Fairfield in Iowa
- 09/08/2011 Zanskar Odyssey Feature Film
- 09/07/2011 J Star Joins the Bad Girls Club
- 09/06/2011 Robinson's Lucid Dreaming
August 2011 NEWS
- 08/22/2011 Thomas Reiss on KSBY
08/08/2011 Exciting Finish to the 2011 Mountain Cup
The 2011 La Sportiva Mountain Cup wrapped up this weekend in Park City, UT with the 19th annual Jupiter Peak Steeplechase. The competition among top Mountain Cup competitors was extremely tight coming into the race and the standings were completely shaken up by the time the last racer crossed the finish line. Jared Scott from Grand Canyon, AZ pulled together an amazing last few races for the season and dethroned the 2010 champion Ryan Woods with his win at Jupiter Peak on Saturday (Woods finished 3rd overall for the 2011 Series). La Sportiva Athlete Matt Byrne finished seconds behind Jared Scott at Jupiter Peak with a dramatic finish that brought him up to 2nd overall in the Series. La Sportiva Athletes Jason Bryant and Bernie Boettcher battled it out for the 4th place title and $1,500 prize payout. Bernie had a great race at Jupiter Peak placing 4th overall but fell just a few points short of Jason Bryant for the Series.
La Sportiva Athlete Megan Kimmel confirmed her dominance in the Mountain Cup winning almost every race she entered for the Series. Megan racked up 119 points on the season and earned her 4th consecutive Mountain Cup title. Sisters Ashley and Cynthia Arnold went back and forth throughout the Series but Ashley ended up with more valuable wins and took 2nd place overall for the Women's division. Cynthia placed 3rd. The Women's Division also had a battle for the 4th place spot between Rachel Cieslewicz and La Sportiva Athlete Alison Bryant. Alison had a great race at Jupiter Peak but it wasn't quite enough to top what Rachel had already done for the season as Cieslewicz took the 4th place spot with 77 points over Alison's 75.
For complete results for the Mountain Cup Series click here.
- 08/03/2011 Beth Rodden in the NY Times!