La Sportiva NEWS

Welcome to the La Sportiva NEWS page.  Below you will find breaking news about upcoming events, athlete accomplishments, contests, and more.  Feel free to browse by date by scrolling down the page or use the Find function of your browser (usually "ctrl+f" on PC or "command+f on Mac) to type in keywords and search the entire page for a specific article.

Enjoy!

 


July 2014 NEWS

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January 2014 NEWS

December 2013 NEWS

12/06/13 D Woods Sends Meadowlark Lemon

Daniel Woods has dispatched the hardest boulder problem in Las Vegas in a matter of minutes!

"Here in Las Vegas for the next couple of weeks, sampling some of the best sandstone in the U.S. It is nice to escape the frigid conditions of CO and throw down in the desert. Yesterday I was able to tick Vega's hardest boulder problem, Meadowlark Lemon (v14) in a quick 30 minute session. This marble cake looking feature has both beauty and power, making it the full package line."  - D Woods

What's next for Daniel in the Vegas area now that Meadowlark Lemon is under his belt? Stayed tuned for the next few weeks to find out.

Photo by Cam Maier

 

 


November 2013 NEWS

11/21/2013 Mayo RPs Superfortress (M13) in Vail, CO

 

Breaking news from Will Mayo himself:

"I finally sent that linkup in Vail today. It's about 45 meters in length and is protected by 20 bolts. The line begins on the start of Amphibian (M9) and continues straight up into the middle section of Red Beard (M12). After the six foot dead point move through the roof on Red Beard it branches right on single-tooth hooks and slightly downward to just below the lip of the roof onto The Flying Fortress (M13), which is probably the technical crux of the line, involving an extremely long reach rightward and downward and a strenuous release of the upper tool onto a figure 4. I have a 6' 6" wing span and it was at my full extension. The line then works right across the lip of the roof on good holds through the crux section of Red Bull and Vodka (M11) and continues right with an acrobatic iron cross move into a single-tooth hook in a corner seam in order to continue right across the last few dry tooling moves of King Cobra (M11) and to finally swing out onto the free-hanging icicle of The Fang and up to the top of the amphitheater.
 
These routes are hard to rate. It has more hard dry tooling than The Flying Fortress; but, the crux of that route, along with it's neighbor Red Beard, is actually the one arm lock off moves at the top in one to two inch thick ice; so, I'm proposing rating Superfortress and The Flying Fortress both the same: M13. Neither route has been repeated; so, consensus there is not. Regardless, it's an exciting and beautiful sport mixed training route!
 
Next, I'm planning to set a line that will traverse the underside of the roof in it's entirety much akin to Robert Jasper's test piece in Eptigen, Switzerland: Ironman (M14). We shall see how it unfolds. I have never felt stronger; I think devoting the past three years to sport climbing and gym climbing has taken my mixed climbing to the next level. I can't explain it otherwise."


October 2013 NEWS

10/31/13 Robinson Slays Jaws II (5.15a)

 

10/30/2013 Mayo Onsights Silhouette (M9, WI6+R)

On October 29th, Will Mayo onsighted the first ascent of Silhouette on the Black Wall of Mt. Evans with Ben Collett.  Says Will, "It was my first traditional M9 onsight and perhaps the finest traditional mixed climb that I have ever established. Clean protection was used throughout the climbing; pitons were needed at the belays. The climb is situated at 13,000' so altitude is a factor and the approach takes about two hours from the car. One must rappel down the northern side of the Black Wall to access the route, which adds to the commitment. The dry tooling is divided into two sections both are overhanging hand and finger cracks requiring jamming, pick and tool torques and suspect hooks. The icicles are wild! The second one requires a 30' runout and a gentle touch and a cool head on the dry slender hanging portion. This amazing route is perhaps my traditional mixed climbing career high point."

 


September 2013 NEWS

August 2013 NEWS

July 2013 NEWS

07/06/2013 Paige Claassen FAs Digital Warfare (5.14-)

Paige Claassen has made the first ascent of the open project, “Digital Warfare”, weighing in at a solid 5.14-.  Digital Warfare is found on the WOW Prow in Free State, South Africa and is the 8th climb to be established on the cliff line.  The line was bolted in 2012 and left as an open project by South African developer Andrew Pedley and is considered the crown jewel of the area.  This is Paige’s 5th 5.14 ascent and her first FA.

Paige is on the “Marmot Lead Now Tour” and will be attempting a significant climbing challenge in 12 countries over the next 12 months to raise $120,000 for charity.  With each accomplishment Paige will generate media attention and drive traffic to her fundraising efforts to help raise money for women and children around the globe. 

Connect and donate

Lead Now Tour Website

 

June 2013 NEWS

06/20/2013 Rachel Meyers Sends Kind Traverse (V11)

La Sportiva Athlete Rachel Meyers has dispatched a classic Colorado testpiece in Rocky Mountain National Park while on family vacation in nearby Estes Park.  The Kind Traverse (V11) navigates small crimpers and technial footwrok in a beautiful alpine setting.  Says Rachel, "I'm having so much fun in Colorado! The views are breathtaking and I'm so lucky to be in such a beautiful place. I've had a blast climbing and can't wait for the second half to be even better! Today, I sent and celebrated with some delicious ice cream. GREAT day!"

 


May 2013 NEWS

April 2013 NEWS

March 2013 NEWS

February 2013 NEWS

January 2013 NEWS

01/07/2013 Mega Mixed! Will Mayo FA's Phobophobia

They finally did it! Pat Delaney, John Freeman, Will Gadd and La Sportiva Athelte Will Mayo have set and climbed the World's Largest Sport Mixed Cave! Their project of three years, the giant cave in the Hydrophobia Cirque in the Waiparous, Alberta, has finally gone down. It's five pitches, about 64 bolts including belay anchors, has fixed bosun chairs at all stations, and is rigged with fixed draws. Will Gadd and Will Mayo have each sent the route single push, individually leading all of the pitches from the ground to the top without falls. The ratings are tentatively: M9, M11, M8, M9+, M7; though concensus is TBD. Gadd might want to rate it 10+.  Regardless, this is one of the most impressive caves to go up in recent memory.

 


December 2012 NEWS

12/19/2012 Joe Kinder Sends the Proj!

You may have seen the video already; a beautiful piece put together by Joe himself depecting the Spanish lifestyle and some amazing sport climbing.  A few weeks later, Joe has finished his dream project. 

"Seleccio was a process of perfecting beta, breaking holds, getting bouted day after day, but still keeping a good attitude and an intent to send.  The route never felt above me, just really hard.  Hard to link, hard to see through, and really hard to send."


November 2012 NEWS

11/06/2012 Vasya Wins the Midnight Burn
This just in:

La Sportiva Athlete Vasya Vorotnikov just took 1st place in one of the most competitive events on the East Coast: Phill Rock Gym's The Midnight Burn.

 

 

 

 


October 2012 NEWS

10/29/2012  Chelsea Rude Onsights The Madness (5.13c)

La Sportiva Athlete Chelsea Rude has reported a seldom acheived onsight ascent of the Madness at the Motherlode this past week, adding yet another tick to a great season for her at the Red.  Check out Chelsea's blog for more updates about her climbing season.

 


September 2012 NEWS

August 2012 NEWS

July 2012 NEWS

June 2012 NEWS

May 2012 NEWS

April 2012 NEWS

 04/09/2012  Sportiva Men Sweep Nationals in Colorado
La Sportiva Athletes Vasya Vorotnikov, Dylan Barks and Daniel Woods took 1st through 3rd repectively at Saturday's SCS Nationals in Boulder, CO.  Vortotnikov, fresh off a 4-month shoulder injury perfomred exceptionally, reaching the high point in finals.  Everyone was amped up and the competition was fierce throughout the evening but as always, the comraderie was top notch and everyone enjoyed the challenging routes.  Louder Than 11 posted a great wrap-up of the event which can be viewed here.

Congrats again to Vasya for an impressive victory and to all La Sportiva Athletes who participated in SCS Nationals including Matty Hong who was 5th overall and Chelsea Rude who placed 4th for women.


March 2012 NEWS

February 2012 NEWS

02/22/2012  J Star Sends His Hardest Yet!

It's been a long battle on this one but La Sportiva Athlete Jonathan Siegrist has finally sent his project outside Las Vegas, NV.  Siegrist states "The route is incredible, unique and gnarly hard."  He spent the majority of this past month climbing on it.  siegrist has not yet decided on a grade but notes that is certainly his hardest to date.  He is calling the route, 'Le Reve'.


January 2012 NEWS

December 2011 NEWS

 

12/26/2011  Mayo FA's New Mixed Line, M13

On Christmas Day La Sportiva Athlete Will Mayo climbed a new line in the Rigid Designator Amphitheater as the day's warm-up. It consequently also served as the warm-down.  It was his fifth try on what is a variation finish to Red Beard which, despite a number of recent attempts, remains unrepeated as of this writing. The Flying Fortress - B17 (M13) ascends the roof between Red Beard and Red Bull and Vodka and involves a seven foot deadpoint out the roof, a three foot lockoff move to a tenuous hook to reach a good hold beneath the upper overhang and another lockoff sequence from another insecure edge at the lip of the 'hang to work for placements in 1" to 2" verglas. Then, 30 meters up the climb, one must do a final series of powerful lockoffs on tools tapped into verglas to get one's feet up onto the ice and reach the anchor. As with Red Beard, the route is a full 35 meters in length. This route may be the hardest non-manufactured mixed climb in North America. Unlike The Game (M13), for instance, in the Cineplex in Alberta, on which one of the cruxes hinges on a hold that was "made", The Flying Fortress is au naturale.

The name is a tribute to Mayo's late Great Uncle Tom who was a B17 pilot that was shot down in occupied France in WWII (and miraculously survived); also, the route is protected with 17 Bolts (the ice is far too thin for ice protection at the top).


November 2011 NEWS

11/15/2011  Sean McColl Sends Big Paw, etc.

La Sportiva Athlete Sean McColl is on a tear in Switzerland.  After his impressive ascent of New Base Line (V14) Sean has since sent several more testpieces in the area.  To name a few Sean nabbed:

Big Paw (8C) 6th ascent
Delusion of Grandeur (8B) 2nd try
Frank's Wild Years (8A+) flash
Arete with a pocket (8A) flash 

And he's not done yet.  Sean has some time left and is showing no signs of stopping now.  We're excited to see what else Seam puts together before he leaves.  Stay tuned for more updates and look for Sean McColl's feature on Sportiva LIVE in the coming days.  Rock & Ice has a nice little article about Sean's tear as well.


October 2011 NEWS

10/01/2011  Kamitses FA's 5.14 Trad Route

La Sportiva Athlete PeterKamitses has established a new trad route in a new area of the Dacks calledSilver Lake.  The area waspreviously closed to climbing as it was underlease by a logging company for years but the lease ran out a few years agoso it is now open to the public.  Kamitses estimates there may be ahundred crags spread out over the huge mountain ?ridge.  Most of thefeatures are vertical and slabby save for one outstanding 30 degree overhangingwall atop the first ?pitch of the slab.  The stunning feature can beseen from miles away; one 100-foot twin crack system splitting the wall.  The route was not previously an aidline, it just sat there unclimbed. 

Kamitses worked theproject last year but it was too wet to lead.  Earlier this year hecame agonizingly close the day before Hurricane Irene struck and thenwaited for weeks for the route to dry.  It was still too wet butKamitses succeeded in getting it dry by stuffing towels and blow torching therock.

Four days of lead attempts and failuresfollowed as Kamitses placed all gear on lead each go.  The crux is a10-move compression boulder problem slapping slopey sidepulls up twin cracks,runout due to the difficulty being too great to stop to place gear. Peter reports he cam came "a bit too close to hitting the slab a fewtimes" so he moved the belayer above belay anchor of the first pitch to becloser to first ?piece of gear and to keep less rope out.  EventuallyPeter was able to find a way to place a piece of gear two moves into the cruxwhich made for shorter falls.  Shorter falls equaled a more relaxedclimber and therefore, the send! Peter Kamitses sent the route on the perfect breezy, 50-degree day ofSeptember 18th and due to the nature of the crux named it "OppositionalDefiance Disorder" (5.14a).


September 2011 NEWS

09/22/2011  Joe Kinder Joins the Bad Girls Club

After bolting a monster route in the Wicked Cave at Rifle Mountain Park and leaving it to the masses as an unfinished open project for the season, Joe Kinder returned this fall and completed what he started.  Dubbed the "Bad Girls Club project" by Kinder, fellow La Sportiva athlete Matty Hong snatched the FA earlier this year and kept the name out of respect to Kinder.  Jonathan Siegrist sent the proj quickly after Matty Hong giving Joe the 3rd ascent of this monumental route.  As it stands now Bad Girls Club has been give 5.14d and is possibly the most difficult line in the canyon.  

Joe Kinder himself reports, "I am super stoked to have completed my project.  Goals in climbing are probably the most satisfying endeavors to complete and now Bad Girls Club is finished.  Grabbing the last hold was an all out effort as I missed it, clawed the wall and snagged it just before the window of opportunity closed.  The route never got easier, it stayed heinously hard, and took a great focus to execute each section correctly and in a way that wouldn't destroy my power for the exit crux.  I am so happy I climbed it... now I need another project!!! HA!  I guess that's the name of the game huh?"

Major congrats to Joe for raising the bar in both his physical ability and high-class attitude throughout the entire process.  We look forward to seeing what's next!

 


09/14/2011  BouldeRave at Urban Rocks 10/7/2011

CHATTANOOGA, TN– Urban Rocks Climbing Gym is hosting the second annual BouldeRave presented byLa Sportiva. BouldeRave is Chattanooga’s Cosmic Climbing Celebration - a free climbing event with activities for climbers and non-climbersalike.  BouldeRave will be the perfect chance for the entire community to try out rock climbingfree at Urban Rocks Gym. Cosmic Climbing is similar to late-night cosmicbowling: a vivid light show accompanied by high-energy music, all whileclimbing on plastic neon holds. In addition to the climbing, the event willfeature a climbing gear demo, raffle prizes (benefitting The Trustfor Public Land), an exciting speed climbing competition, pre-registration forthe Triple Crown Bouldering Series, various climbing games and an after-party fueledby Nashville DJ, This is ART.

BouldeRave willbe host to a number of different activities and contests. Visit www.UrbanRocksGym.com for additional eventinformation or talk to an Urban Rocks staff member at 423-475-6578. 

 


August 2011 NEWS

08/08/2011  Exciting Finish to the 2011 Mountain Cup

The 2011 La Sportiva Mountain Cup wrapped up this weekend in Park City, UT with the 19th annual Jupiter Peak Steeplechase.  The competition among top Mountain Cup competitors was extremely tight coming into the race and the standings were completely shaken up by the time the last racer crossed the finish line.  Jared Scott from Grand Canyon, AZ pulled together an amazing last few races for the season and dethroned the 2010 champion Ryan Woods with his win at Jupiter Peak on Saturday (Woods finished 3rd overall for the 2011 Series).  La Sportiva Athlete Matt Byrne finished seconds behind Jared Scott at Jupiter Peak with a dramatic finish that brought him up to 2nd overall in the Series.  La Sportiva Athletes Jason Bryant and Bernie Boettcher battled it out for the 4th place title and $1,500 prize payout.  Bernie had a great race at Jupiter Peak placing 4th overall but fell just a few points short of Jason Bryant for the Series.

La Sportiva Athlete Megan Kimmel  confirmed her dominance in the Mountain Cup winning almost every race she entered for the Series.  Megan racked up 119 points on the season and earned her 4th consecutive Mountain Cup title.  Sisters Ashley and Cynthia Arnold went back and forth throughout the Series but Ashley ended up with more valuable wins and took 2nd place overall for the Women's division.  Cynthia placed 3rd.  The Women's Division also had a battle for the 4th place spot between Rachel Cieslewicz and La Sportiva Athlete Alison Bryant.  Alison had a great race at Jupiter Peak but it wasn't quite enough to top what Rachel had already done for the season as Cieslewicz took the 4th place spot with 77 points over Alison's 75. 

Media will soon be posted on mountaincup.com as well as the La Sportiva Facebook page.

For complete results for the Mountain Cup Series click here.

 


July 2011 NEWS