Paul Robinson - Sweden

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

La Sportiva Legends Comp

By Paul Robinson

I've been invited here to Stockholm, Sweden to compete in the La Sportiva Legends Invitational Bouldering Competition to be held at Klattercentrat in the city of Stockholm.  I had previously heard about the climbing potential around Stockholm and decided to book my ticket so that I could spend a couple of days bouldering outside before the main event.  I have been here for a week now and the climbing has been great.  As of recently, the weather has not been cooperating so much so we are stuck climbing indoors before the competition this upcoming weekend.

The climbing around Stockholm is primarily a schist-like granite.  The features are really nice and the boulders all sit in very unique atmospheres from nearly being downtown to in pine forests with no human presence what so ever!  Over the course of the week, I have been fortunate enough to climb in three areas, Skevik, Langholmen, and brudberget Stockholm is truly a beautiful place and I am psyched to have made the trip out here.


After a couple of really fun days of climbing outside on the local boulders around Stockholm, it was time to get psyched on climbing in the gym.  The La Sportiva Legends bouldering competition was coming up and I wanted to perform well.  After two days in the gym, I felt good and eagerly awaited the first day of the competition. The day before the competition, the other competitors arrived from all over Europe.  Daniel flew in from Switzerland, Dimitry from Russia, Adam from the Czech Republic, and Anthony from Finland.  We were all super psyched for the start of what would become one of the best competitions I have ever competed in.

The first day of the competition was on Friday.  The route setters had set us five climbs in which we were instructed to work out in a matter of one and a half hours.  The first round was very informal.  We were able to try the climbs as much as we wished and could start them from wherever we wanted.  The climbs were much more difficult than you would find in a normal world cup final, so it was imperative that we were given time to work them before the final round the next evening.  After the first round, we were all very psyched!  Everyone had some boulders that they struggled on and others that they felt stronger on.  It was really cool to have a session with some of the world's best boulderers and it would be a really great event the following evening.   The next day we would have to climb the boulders in 3 minutes with tops and bonuses as the only way of obtaining points.

The next morning, we all woke up very sore from the session the evening before.  I spent much of the day relaxing, editing video, and just getting myself prepared for the evening ahead.  Before the competition, we were all driven to a local climbing gym where the competition was not going to be held.  We all warmed up slowly and wished for a rest day before the big event.  There was definitely some competitive spirit in the air but more than anything, everyone was just really psyched to get out there and climb on the boulders we had projected the day before.  When the time came, at about 7:30 pm, we were picked up at the gym by a huge 8-meter limo and brought to the gym where the competition was to be held.  The back bay doors opened and a huge fog machine made the gym look as if we were in a swamp.  The limo drove through the bay doors and we all exited the limo as our names were called.

The first boulder was a technical one that had us all scared.  Fortunately, I was able to complete it and at this time was tied with Adam and Dimitry.  The second problem went just as well and continued my streak with two tops!  The second boulder was really cool with a very unique start and a powerful, jumpy finish.  On the third boulder, I made a mistake, which was a bit of a disappointment for me.  My right hand slipped as I went for the finishing hold and was not able to finish the boulder in my three-minute allotment.  The other competitors finished the line and at this point Dimitry and Adam were in first and Daniel and I were tied for third.  On the fourth climb I managed to do the first double dyno on my first try and finish the boulder.  This climb was very low percentage and I was really psyched to have finished it in only one attempt.  After this boulder I was in third and Dimitry and Adam were still tied for first.  It was all going to come down to the last boulder!

On the final boulder, Daniel and Adam made extremely amazing performances that were incredible to watch!  I had a hard time with a slippery foothold at the top and was unable to finish the final climb of the competition.  I finished the competition in fourth place, which I cannot complain about at all.   I was super psyched with how I climbed and the event was a complete success.  The gym was absolutely packed and everyone in there was beyond psyched to watch us battle it out on the boulders.  I made some really good friends and had a great time hanging out with old friends on the trip.  I look forward to the competition next year!

Post Your Comments

 ← refresh image