La Sportiva News

Athlete and Author Freddie Wilkinson...
... has just released his first book "One Thousand Mountain Summits" available now.

"One Thousand Mountain Summits" provides a comprehensive look at the 2008 K2 disaster which left 11 climbers dead on the world's second highest mountain. Wilkinson criss-crossed the globe to interview the survivors, the families of the climbers who perished and the loyal Sherpa guides whose actions helped save the lives of three climbers. Click the "Read More" link to read real-time reviews and further info as to where to find the rest of this amazing story. Read More...

Jared Campbell Wins Hardrock!
In an epic battle to the finish, Jared Campbell won the brutal Hardrock 100 on July 9-10, 2010, edging out Diana Finkel, who was on target to become the first female overall winner of the race. After placing fifth last year, Campbell, a 30-year-old from Sandy, Utah, fought back, overcoming Finkel in the last few miles to win with a time of 27:18. Campbell races for the La Sportiva mountain running team. Read more here Read More...

There is not Enough Rock for Alex
After just recently breaking several solo link-up speed records in Yoesmite, Alex Honnold returned to El Cap with Sean Leary to do a triple link-up of the Nose, Salathé Wall, and Lurking Fear in a single day! Read More...

Colin Haley & Bjorn-Eivind Artun Establish New Route
La Sportiva Athlete Colin Haley and partner Bjorn-Eivind Artun have just come out from an amazing 37-day trip to Denali and Mt. Foraker in Alaska. To read a personal account of the new route they put up on Mt. Foraker click here => Read More...

Honnold Breaks Speed Records in Yosemite
La Sportiva Athlete Alex Honnold "broke several Yosemite Valley speed records on Wednesday, June 22, with his one-day solo enchainment of two Grade VI routes, first The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (5.12a, 23 pitches) and then The Nose of El Capitan (5.9 C1, 31 pitches)." Check out the full story at Aplinst.com=> Read More...

JC Sends the Proj at American Fork Canyon!!!
La Sportiva Athlete Jacinda Hunter has made the first ascent of a long-standing project in American Fork Canyon, UT. It was bolted 15 or 20 years ago by Geoff Weigand and never saw a clean ascent until now. JC has named the line Fantasy Island suggesting the modest grade of 5.14b! Details and photos to come, great work putting this killer line to bed JC! Check out a personal account of the send here => Read More...

Mike Foley makes 2nd Ascent of China Glide (5.14d)
La Sportiva Athlete Mike Foley has made the 2nd ascent of one of Rumney's hardest testpieces China Glide (5.14d) this past weekend. Put up by Pete Kamitses a few years back, China Glide links the meat of China Beach (5.14b) and Livin’ Astroglide (5.14+) the latter of which Foley recently made the 5th ascent. Strong work Mike!

5.14 at Age 12!!!
12 year-old Shawn Raboutou just sent Attention On Vous Regarde (5.14a) in Anglar, St. Antonin France!!! More details and media on the way, but we just couldn't resist giving a huge shout out to Shawn for this monumental acheivement. Strong work Shawn!

J Star the Problem Child!
La Sportiva athlete Jonathan Siegrist has made the 4th ascent of Problem Child (5.14c) in Deep Creek, WA. The famed route has caused many problems for children of all ages and requires exceptional fitness and ability to adjust to cryptic beta on the fly. Siegrist put the Problem Child down for a nap then expedited a 2nd go ascent of Motley Crux (5.14a) and took a nice cool-down lap on Masochist (5.13b) to wrap up yet another stellar day for a climber who's so hot right now the forests are worried. Luckily it's been raining a lot in Washington. Read a detailed report of his trip up to this point at J Star's blog => Read More...

Claassen Makes FFA of Motley Crux
La Sportiva athlete Paige Claassen sent Motley Crux (5.14a) in Deep Creek, WA making the first female ascent of the route.

Deep Creek is 20 minutes outside Spokane, WA and hosts a wide selection of steep, pumpy routes on fractured basalt. Check out Jonathan Siegrist's blog for a detailed trip report. Read More...

Mountain Cup Standings Updated
The Rothrock Trail Challenge went off this weekend marking the end of stage 4 of the Mountain Cup Circuit. State College local Jacob Loverich ran an impressive race and used his home-field advantage (and La Sportiva Raptors) to upset the La Sportiva Mountain Running Team who followed in suite close behind. Be sure to check out http://mountainrunning.com/mc/results.php for the official standings of the Mountain Cup thus far and as always be sure to read Bryon Powell's race report by clicking the link below. Read More...

Crushfest at Smith Rock for J Star and Paige
La Sportiva Athletes Jonathan Siegrist and Paige Claassen have just wrapped up a killer tour of Smith Rock, OR.

Some are saying Siegrist’s trip is likely "the most successful stint anyone has had at Smith Rock thus far" and with multiple 5.13+ onsights and 2nd go redpoints as hard as 5.14a not to mention a redpoint ascent of To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a) it would be hard to argue against this statement.

Paige hung them up and put 'em down as well with flash ascents of Kings of Rap (5.12d) and Darkness at Noon (5.13a). She also managed to redpoint White Wedding (5.13d) a continuously challenging pitch with everything from huecos and pockets to nearly non-existant vertical seams and exciting runouts.

Check out J Star's blog to see a personal account of the trip => Read More...

Mike Foley makes 5th ascent of Livin' Astroglide (5.14+)
La Sportiva athlete Mike Foley has redpointed one of Rumney's hardest lines, Livin' Astroglide (5.14+). Fellow La Sportiva Climbing Team member Joe Kinder established this 70 ft. line which adds a V10 exit sequence to Dave Graham's Livin’ Astro (5.14c) and since then the route has only seen three repeat ascents. Foley's send adds a 5th ascent to this area testpiece and suggests a promising season for this strong young climber.

New River Rendezvous Video
Check out some of the highlights from the 2010 New River Rendezvous by watching this short video from La Sportiva. You can view this on Facebook as well by becoming a Fan of La Sportiva. Enjoy! Read More...

1st Annual Jonny Copp and Micah Dash Inspire Award Recipients Announced!
Black Diamond Equipment, La Sportiva, Mountain Hardwear and Patagonia are pleased to announce the recipients of the 1st Annual Jonny Copp and Micah Dash Inspire Grants!

In honoring the late Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, seven teams have been awarded support for their upcoming expeditions.

Madaleine Sorkin, Emily Stifler & Lorna Illingworth

Objective: Attempt to free climb the entire Original Route (VI 5.9+ A3) on the Southeast face of Mt. Proboscis, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Logan Mountains Canada Northern Territories, Canada (FFA OG route)

Will Meinen, Fred Mcguiness & Scott Thumlert

Objective: The North Face of Mt. Geiki Canada

Kevin Mahoney, Freddie Wilkinson & Ben Gilmore

Objective: A successful alpine style ascent of the South Face of Nuptse (7800 meters, either via a new route on the perimeter of the “Cobwell Wall” or making the second accent of “Moonlight Sonata”

Matt Mc Cormick, Jim Shimberg & Tim Dehroene

Objective: The Southwest Pillar of K7 west (6,200 ft tall, enormous relief of over 1,500m , remains unclimbed)

Zack Smith, Freddie Wilkenson & Renan Ozturk

Objective: Alpine style enchainment of the entire Tooth Massif- Torre Traverse of AK- Espresso Gap to summit of Eye Tooth, Bear Tooth, and all 3 summits of the Moose’s Tooth- completing a full circle back of to the Ruth Glacier

Samuel Johnson & Ryan Hokanson

Objective: Primary focus alpine style and single push assents of some of the Hayes Range unclimbed gems. South face of Mount Shand, AK

Sarah Garlick: partners Danika Gilbert, Jim Surette & Dave Nettle

Objective: Establish new free routes on the Northwest face of The Baroness, a steep 2,000 ft granite wall on the east side of the Torssukatak Fjord, Pamiagluk Island South Greenland

About the Jonny Copp and Micah Dash Inspire Award:

Sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, La Sportiva, Mountain Hardwear and Patagonia, the Copp-Dash Inspire Award will help support small teams tackling difficult climbs in the great mountains of the world who plan to personally document and share their ascents through a multimedia blend of storytelling elements. Proposed trips or climbs should be focused on unclimbed objectives in distant ranges and regions, requiring a high level of skill and commitment and climbed in a fast, light and clean style that stays true to the progression of expedition climbing. Proposed documentation styles can include any mix of photos, video or writing that will vividly capture the essence and adventure of the trip or climb. Proposed sharing of these storytelling elements could aspire to involve slideshows, viral film clips, magazine articles, multimedia presentations, etc. The Copp-Dash Inspire Award is supported with in-kind support from Adventure Film Festival, Alpinist Magazine, American Alpine Club, Sender Films, and the Jonny Copp Foundation. Read More...

Daniel Woods 3rd at Roc Comp
La Sportiva athlete Daniel Woods made a proud showing on the podium at this past weekend's Roc Comp presented by Mountain Hardware. Woods took 3rd place among a stacked roster including Chris Lindner, Ethan Pringle, Carlo Traversi, Paul Robinson, and Chris Sharma. In the end veteran Chris Sharma took the top spot but the competition was fierce and this will prove to be an exciting comp season if all these guys keep showing up. Congrats Daniel! Read More...

Keep an Eye on This Guy!
Since entering the Masters category La Sportiva Athlete Bernie Boettcher has had an amazing streak of success.

So far in 2010 Boettcher has entered 10 races and has won them all in the Masters category. He has won the Overall category twice, placed 2nd Overall four times and 3rd thrice with only one finish outside of top 10 (13th at the Canyonlands Half Marathon with 3,242 finishers). Since qualifying for the Masters category 7 1/2 years ago, Boettcher has entered 386 races in 394 weeks with a record of 155 Overall wins and 296 Masters wins.

Keep an eye on this guy this season, Boettcher is absolutely on fire!

FC ECO 2.0 GTX Awarded Outside Magazine Editor's Choice!
Outside Magazine's May issue awarded the La Sportiva FC ECO 2.0 GTX with the Editor's Choice in the their monthly ESSENTIALS gear section! " Put a hiking boot on a diet and you'll get something like the FC ECO 2.0 GTX from La Sportiva. Though lightweight and low-cut, it feels as sturdy as a backpacking clomper: The stiff Vibram sole (30 percent scrap rubber) is perfect for sharp scree and rock scrambling, and the upper-Gore-Tex-lined waterproof nubuck leather and recycled nylon-stood up to the muck and rough- trail abrasion." Spring is just around the corner, hit the trails this year with the FC ECO 2.0 Read More...

Hörst Releases Maximum Climbing...
Long-time La Sportiva climber and America’s best-selling author on climbing performance Eric Hörst has released his latest book, "Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance and Optimal Experience". Whether your preference is bouldering, sport climbing, traditional climbing, or mountaineering Eric Hörst brings unprecedented clarity to the many cognitive and neurophysical aspects of climbing and dovetails this information into a complete program. With three stages of mental training that correspond to the beginner, intermediate, and elite levels of experience and commitment, it is the ideal template to build upon to personalize your goals through years of climbing to come. Read More...

Mt Penn Kicks off the 2010 La Sportiva Mountain Cup!
A huge field of more than 700 trail runners were graced with warmth and sunshine for 15 kilometers (between 9 and 10 miles) of fun on one of the series’ flattest courses. When we say fun, we mean it. The course has mud, some folks race in pig snouts, the race application compares the event to a mobile home, there is an “alternative beverage” aid station, and a live band plays afterward. The folks from Reading, PA’s Pagoda Pacers AC sure know how to add extra entertainment to the inherent excitement of trail running. Of course, there was also a world-class trail race going on! The Race Despite unseasonably warm conditions for Southeastern Pennsylvania, both the men’s and women’s course records fell at this year’s Mt. Penn Mudfest. Such has become the norm at most events’ inauguration into the La Sportiva Mountain Cup. Read More...

Brad Weaver Makes 3rd Ascent of Southern Comfort 5.14a
Brad Weaver has successfully completed Southern Comfort (5.14a) in Alabama ticking the 3rd overall ascent of the route. Put up nearly a decade ago, Southern Comfort had not seen a 2nd ascent since fellow La Sporitva athlete Joe Kinder took the problem down about a year ago. Weaver made short work of the route, putting in only two days and five attempts on this Alabama test-piece. Read Brad's personal account of the send here => Read More...

Joe Kinder Takes Flight
"On March 17, Joey Kinder succeeded in sending his most recent project, Flight of the Conchords, which sits in a 300-foot cave near Kinder's home in Hurricane, Utah. While hesitant to attach a grade, the 29 year-old New Hampshire native suggests an 8c+, or 5.14c." Read More...

Rausch and Willis Complete 1st Winter Ascent of the Beartooth
La Sportiva athlete Loren Rausch and partner Rusty Willis have completed the first winter ascent of the Beartooth Spire in Montana. The climb involved a 27 hour push that covered 22 miles, 6,000 feet of elevation gain and 12 pitches of technical mixed climbing. A winter ascent of the Beartooth Spire has be attempted since the 1970's and it is unlikely that the Spire will see a repeat ascent anytime soon. Read More...

Leor Pantilat Defends His Title at Way Too Cool 50k
La Sportiva Mountain Running athlete Leor Pantilat took 1st place at Saturday's Way Too Cool 50k event in Cool, CA. Pantilat won the 2009 event as well making this his second consecutive win on the Cool course. Conditions were wet and muddy, slowing down racers' times, but the cool, collected, and well oriented Pantilat navigated all obstacles to break through the finish tape. Read Leor's personal account of the Race here ==> Read More...

Bernie Boettcher Places 3rd at the Jeremy Wright North American Snowshoe Championships
"For the final day of the Beaver Creek Snowshoe Adventure Series the race action moved to the top of McCoy Park with a starting elevation of 9,855 feet." Over 500 snowshoers participated in the race and La Sportiva athlete Bernie Boettcher finished right near the top behind only two competitors. See complete race results here ==> Read More...

Brad Weaver Takes 1st at HP Rocks Comp
La Sportiva athlete Brad Weaver placed 1st in the Open Division on Saturday at the HP Rocks Competition at Horse Pens 40. The Open Division included problems as hard as V12 and Weaver submitted an impressive tick list to take the prize. Read More...

La Sportiva Named Backpacker Mag's 2010 Editors' Choice Award Winner
La Sportiva, makers of technical climbing, mountaineering, Mountain Running® and hiking footwear, has been honored as the recipient of the 2010 Backpacker magazine Editors’ Choice Green Award, the most prestigious award in the outdoor industry, given annually to products in recognition of their outstanding innovation in design, materials and/or performance. Backpacker Editor-In-Chief Jonathan Dorn and his staff of editors and testers presented La Sportiva's FC ECO 3.0 GTX specialty hiking shoe with the 2010 Editors' Choice Green Award at the annual Outdoor Retailer Winter Market in Salt Lake City, Utah on Thursday, January 21st. Read More...

2010 La Sportiva Mountain Cup Dates and Venues Set!
La Sportiva brings you the 2010 premier trail race series, highlighting 10 of the best trail races in North America. Whether you are a middle-of-the-pack runner or a podium finisher, this series is for you! You might win, you will have fun! Get details and sign up at www.mountainrunning.com Race Schedule 4/3/10 Mt. Penn Mudfest 15 km Reading, PA 5/22/10 Jemez Mountain Half Marathon 13.1 mi Los Alamos, NM 5/28/10 Rock2Rock Run 10 km Asheville, NC 6/5/10 RothRock Challenge 30km State College, PA 07/18/10 Barr Trail Mountain Race 12 mi Manitou Springs, CO 08/07/10 Squaw Valley Mountain Run 3.6 mi Squaw Valley, CA 08/07/10 Jupiter Peak Steeplechase 16 mi Park City, UT 08/08/10 La Sportiva Eldora Trail Race 11 km Nederland, CO 8/7/10 Mt. Ashland Hill Climb 13.3 mi Ashland. OR 8/21/10 Up and Over 10 km Taos, NM Read More...

Jason Bryant Takes Down Mt. Mitchell
La Sportiva Mountain Running Athlete Jason Bryant has won the 13th annual Mount Mitchell Challenge at Black Mountain, NC! Bryant posted a finish time of 4:31.16, nearly 30 minutes ahead of 2nd place. Conditions were horrendous with single-digit temperatures, bitter windchill, and a track riddled with snow, ice and mud. "The Challenge was like two totally different races. Temperatures at the start were in the mid 20s and conditions were clear with a light breeze. After the easy 3 miles on the road, the climbing began with a steep, 15-20%, final road section. Then onto the trails and the steady climb to the Blue Ridge. Soon after hitting the toll road, I passed the lead marathon runner and was on my own the rest of the way, except for the spectators that were out on the course. The local support for this race is awesome. Even with the cold conditions, there were people out along the road to see us off at the 7:00am start..." Read More...

Ambrosia 2nd Assent by Alex Honnold
Check it out, from Bishop Bouldering Blog: This afternoon at the Buttermilks, Alex Honnold made the second ascent of Ambrosia, the striking highball up the Grandpa Peabody's immaculate, gold-and-black streaked east wall. Kevin Jorgeson who made the first ascent last winter was there with Alex, spotting him during the climb which was also watched by a group of onlookers who helped to pile a dozen or more pads at the base. Alex has suggested that the new method he figured out for the lower crux checks in around v10--a little easier than Kevin's method, due to the discovery of a wide pinch that helped him past the hardest sequence. However the real meat of the climb comes committing to the next section of the line, beginning with an awkward few moves just above the rest that check in around v7, followed by sustained though relatively easy climbing all the way to the summit. Alex had top-roped this section before his solo, though he did get a bit confused near the top to find chalk from another climber who had also been working it by a different sequence! I took a few snapshots of the ascent. Click Read More to see photos... Read More...

Daniel Woods puts up the hardest problem in the US- The Game
Daniel Woods has completed a short granite roof in Boulder Canyon, Colorado, that he’s graded V16 — the first boulder problem given this grade in the United States, and one of the few in the world. The Game presents an all-too-obvious challenge, with eight hard moves across a giant talus block about 50 meters from the highway. The climb had been eyed and tried for years, but until this winter no one but Woods had been able to do all the moves. Read More...

Team Sportiva Represents at ABS Nationals
ABS Nationals results are in- Daniel Woods takes First Place as well as regional athletes Jimmy Webb (7th), Gabor Szekely (9th)! Congrats! Read More...

Mugs Stump Grants Announced
Winners of the 2010 Mugs Stump Awards and Polartec Challenge Grants have been announced. The Mugs Stump Award was created in 1992 in memory of the visionary American alpinist Mugs Stump; six small teams will receive a total of $25,000 in grants for their lightweight, clean expeditions to unclimbed objectives Read More...

Steve House Solos Remission
“Did some climbing without a rope today. And I don't mean bouldering,” Steve House teased on Facebook, posting a photo of a slim band of white-and-yellow ice. Respondants soon guessed correctly that the tall, narrow runnel of ice was Repentance (NEI5), and House confirmed that he had soloed it and its companion route Remission (NEI5+), renowned hard classics at Cathedral Ledge, North Conway, New Hampshire. Read More...

Check out the new Daniel Woods Solution Video
Check it out- Read More...

La Sportiva Names 2010 Running Team Roster And Associate Sponsors
02.01.2010 – La Sportiva N.A., makers of technical climbing, mountaineering, Mountain Running® and hiking footwear, announces its Mountain Running® team roster and associate sponsors for 2010. “Supporting the La Sportiva Mountain Running® team is one of many ways in which we aim to improve the vitality of the sport,” says Laura Fryer, La Sportiva’s Marketing Manager. “Ever since our Mountain Running® team’s inception in 2003, our goal has been to provide a network of support to regional race directors, volunteers, talented athletes and quality races throughout North America. We are very grateful for the assistance that our associate sponsors will be providing in 2010, as this mission would be impossible without their help.” La Sportiva’s running team roster includes over 25 athletes from around North America and includes such ultrarunning notables as Karl Meltzer, Luke Nelson, Leor Pantilat as well as the 2009 La Sportiva Mountain Cup Champions Matthew Byrne and Megan Kimmel. New additions to the La Sportiva team for 2010 include Andy Jones-Wilkins of Ketchum, Idaho, Nathan Yanko of San Francisco, CA, Ellen Parker of Seattle, WA, and Natalie Simms of Chattanooga, TN. Read More...

Daniel Woods top American, Lauren Lee 2nd & Paige Claassen 3rd at SCS Open National Championship Sandy, Utah.
Daniel Woods and Sasha Digiulian were the top American finishers at the SCS Open National Championship at Momentum gym in Sandy, Utah. The two climbers head the new U.S. sport climbing team, gaining access to international events. Though Woods was the top American male, Norway’s Magnus Midtboe won the men’s competition by flashing the final route, along with Woods; Midtboe’s better performance on the two qualifying routes gave him the edge. Results from both qualifiers and finals were used to choose the U.S. teams. See http://www.scsnationals.org/details/index.htm for full results. Read More...

Copp-Dash Inspire Award Announced!
La Sportiva, Black Diamond, Mountain Hardwear and Patagonia announce the Copp-Dash Inspire Award to be announced at next week's Winter Outdoor Retailer in Salt Lake City, Utah. Read More...

Gariepy and Glanc 2nd & 3rd female at Ouray and Mayo takes 3rd
The 15th annual Ouray Ice Festival Competition, held January 9, became a battle of the big guns as Josh Wharton and Sam Elias squared off among a field of 16 men to determine who would drive home with the $2,000 first-place prize, one of the richest purses in U.S. competitive climbing. Wharton, known for bold alpine ascents including a bolt-less attempt on Cerro Torre is a Rifle local and one of America’s top all-around climbers, and perhaps the only to climb an M10, V10 and 5.13 in a single week. Elias has redpointed 5.14c, bouldered V10 and climbed M11. Like Wharton, Elias has at times set up camp in Rifle Mountain Park. At this year’s Ouray competition, speculation raged about whether the alpinist or the sport climber would triumph. For all the results go to: http://ourayicefestival.com/competition/competition-results Read More...

Brad Weaver sends "One Inch Pinch" In Arkansas
Brad Weaver put together a short video of sending V12 "One Inch Pinch", in Arkansas check out this smooth style. Read More...

New Horsetooth Resevoir Guide Book
Cameron Cross and Ben Scott put together a new, updated version of the Horsetooth Resevoir guide book. This book contains sweet photos, easy directions and mapping, and a few new gems and variations to classic boulder problems in the area. Check it out! Read More...

My Triple Crown Deadline!!
The Triple Crown Bouldering Series has reached an end..with all things said and done all three events were a huge success! The My Triple Crown Contest put on by La Sportiva has also come to the top out. We need all log books turned in to the drop off locations no later than Dec. 15th if you wish to be entered into the contest for most creative. Remember this has a grand prize of 4 pairs of rock shoes so don't miss out!! Read More...

Conrad Anker Explains an Epic Montana Ice Season
At Hyalite Canyon in SW Montana we are totally happy to be in the first month of what promises to be an epic season. To start off the Mummy climbs received an ascent on the second weekend of October. Then in November the seldom seen climbs started filling in. The Big Sleep, Black Magic and Winter Dance all were climbed before the 1st of December. The standard climbs formed in well. So what brings on a good season for Hyalite Canyon? First off the geologic layup of the canyon favors ice climbing. The canyon is on the east side (read cold) of the divide and drains north. The peaks sit atop a layer of volcanic mudflow and andesite – both a bit more impermeable to water than the country rock above. Combine this with a very wet summer, a cold October and a heavy Sierra grade layer of snow the second week of November and everything lines up! Ice grows fastest (albeit brittle) when the temps are cold. As I type away on the 6th of December we have had a week of below normal temperatures. Which for next weekends Bozeman Ice Festival is good news. click the link to check out more... Read More...

Caitlin Smith Takes The North Face Endurance Challenge!
In just her first year running competitively at extra-long distances — 50 kilometers (roughly 31 miles) is her specialty — the 28-year-old Smith already has established herself as perhaps the best female ultra-runner in the country....click to read more Read More...

Take a look @ Renan Ozturk's typical day
Nikon is presenting a contest for people to put together a short film 140 seconds or less and display a typical day in the life of.... Check out Renan and what his day consists of. Read More...

The Continuum Project: Nepal
Audrey Gariepy, Jen Olson, and friends send a new route on the Hungo Face of Kwangde Shar in Nepal. Check out this video footage... Read More...

Access Fund Membership Info!!
Get this, The Access Fund estimates that only 1% of climbers in the United States are members of the organization. Yet membership is the very backbone of everything they do—funding 40% of their annual budget to keep climbing areas open. The Access Fund is running a special end-of-year promotion to help drive membership. Step it up and join today! Read More...

Willie and Juan Carlos Climb Guatemala's Volcanoes!
Willie Benegas and Juan Carlos Sagastume did it!! 37 volcanoes in 8 1/2 day covering. About 200 miles and. 24,500 meters of elevation gain, stay tuned Men’s Journal feature article to come...

Sarah Garlick and Friends Discover Newfoundland
Sarah Garlick, Janet Bergman, and Kristen Kremer road trip and boat ride to remote Newfoundland where they discover amazing lanscapes, uncertian cracks, and surprisingly great weather. Check out Sarah's story and pictures! Read More...

Willie Benegas goes for 37 volcanoes in 10 days
Willie Benegas and Juan Carlos Sagastume are attempting to climb 37 volcanoes around Guatemala in just 10 days! This will be the first time anyone has attempted to climb all of the volcanoes in such a short time period. The climbers will be giving updates regularly and to see their progress check out these blogs. www.benegasbrothers.com and www.juancarlossagastume.com.

Brad Weaver Pulling Hard @ Red River
Brad Weaver recently sent "100 Ounces of Gold" at the Red River Gorge which had previously been graded at 5.13c until a hold broke away on the crux and has since never been repeated. Brad was the first to send this route with its new crux sequence and gave a new grade of 5.13d/14a. Weaver is also projecting a 5.14c on the same wall. Great things down at the Red!

Triple Crown News
In this fourth Beta video, Colorado native Andy Wellman tells us how he ended up in Chattanooga, Tennessee by way of Horse Pens 40, Alabama, and shows how to crush two Stone Fort classic V4's, "Super Mario" and "Mystery Groove." Read More...

Rock/Creek Stump Jump
Now in it's 9th year running, the Rock/Creek StumpJump is gaining national recognition and prestige as one of the top 50k trail runs in the country, with racers from 20 states in attendance. This year's race will go down in Rock/Creek Trail Series history as the beginning of something tremendous for Southeast trail running, acting as a magnet for running talents and sponsored athletes such as Dean Karnazes (The North Face), Krissy Moehl and Bryan Dayton (Vasque) and hometown heroes like Wheeler and Greenhill. Moehl, who also represents Patagonia, had just come from a victory at the Tour de Mont Blanc, and decided not to race but was on hand to volunteer. Read More...

2009 Adventure Film Fest in Boulder, CO
Skiing, Mt. Biking, Enviro, Kayaking, Climbing Films and more........... Nov 12-14th 2009 The Adventure Film Festival in Boulder is an international forum for the best and most inspiring independent films of the year. The over 30 films featured in the Festival encompass all aspects of adventure from serious exploration and environmental heroism to gripping tales from the edge of the believable. With award winning films from around the globe‚ adventure art and powerful speakers‚ the annual Adventure Film Festival in Boulder continues to inspire and awaken us all to the world we live in. Check out this years Adventure Film Fest in Boulder, CO going on the weekend of Nov. 12-14th 2009 and experience the outdoor film industry like never before. Catagories included this year are: Fam/Kids show Featured Artist- Renan Ozturk China Episode Filmmaker Workshop Mt Biking Films Climbing Films Skiing Films Kayaking films Environmental Social change Get info about tickets at the following link: http://www.adventurefilm.org/store/tickets.aspx Get the latest trailers at the following link: http://www.adventurefilm.org/films/films/index.aspx Read More...

Summit For Someone Climb Series!
16 Challenging Peaks. 1 Great Cause! Join Backpacker Magazine’s Summit for Someone benefit climb series as we continue to climb North America’s most sought after peaks. Not only will you experience your choice of challenging, professionally guided ascents, but you’ll receive a mountain of free gear from our sponsors. And, you’ll feel good knowing your efforts will help fund a life-changing week in the wilderness for teens that need it most. La Sportiva is pleased to be able to play a role helping America’s young people. Amazing mountains, Spectacular settings! Grand Teton Mount Rainier Mount Olympus Mount Whitney Pico de Orizaba Alaska Expeditions Women-specific climbs Beginner – advanced options Big City Mountaineers’ programs serve hundreds of urban, under-resourced teens by providing access to life-altering outdoors activities with adult mentors. The money raised by each climber is enough to support 4 teens on a one week transformative backcountry experience. Sign up. Raise funds. Get gear. Go climb. Do Good! Read More...

Wilder Gets FA on his project "Cheating Reality"
Matt Wilder has been working a project all fall in the Boulder Flatirons on the North Face of the Devil's Thumb. The 5.14a route is totally new to the area which had never previously been climbed. Aptly named "Cheating Reality" this route is one for the books! Check it out on Matt's blog... Read More...

Caitlin Smith Takes Title in Nike Women's Marathon
The Nike Women's Marathon was held in San Francisco this year and welcomed close to 20,000 participants! The race raised around 14 million dollars for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society. Caitlin rocking the Skylites was the first to cross the finish line posting a time of 2hrs 52mins. This race was a great success and was represented by 50 countries around the world. Congrats Caitlin and everyone who participated!! Read More...

Alex Honnold Wins the 2009 Bates Award from the American Alpine Club!!
To recognize his many contributions to American climbing and education of our nation's youth, the American Alpine Club established the Robert Hicks Bates Award for outstanding accomplishment by a young climber. It recognizes a young climber who, in the judgment of the volunteer selection committee, has demonstrated exceptional skill and character in the climbing or mountaineering arts and has outstanding promise for future accomplishment. This year’s Bates Award goes to…Alex Honnold. Alex burst onto the climbing scene with a splash of headlines, first in Fall 2007 with his one-day free-solo link-up of the Rostrum and Astroman, and then again in spring 2008, with a first free-solo ascent of Moonlight Buttress, (5.12+) in Zion. These impressive feats were followed by equally impressive ones: an 8.5-hour free ascent of El Capitan’s Salathé Wall, the first free-solo ascent of the Regular Route on Half Dome, and many others. At 23, Alex is one of the most accomplished rock climbers today. Some of his other groundbreaking ascents include an onsight ascent of Masters Edge (E7 6b) at Millstone, UK, as well as an onsight free solo of London Wall (E5) in the same area; a flash ascent of Gaia (E8 6c); and repeats of some of the hardest desert routes, such as Conception and Belly Full of Bad Berries. He lives in Sacramento, California. Read More...

La Sportiva's My Triple Crown Contest!
La Sportiva presents for the first time "My Triple Crown." This contest in association with the Triple Crown Bouldering Series will kick off at the first event at Hound Ears in Boone, NC. Climbers who wish to share their experiences throughout the three events will be able to pick up a signature La Sportiva climbing log book at the Hound Ears event. Climbers are asked to write about all of the funny, inspiring, and excited events that go along with this great climbing comp. Creativity is key to winning this contest which has a grand prize of 4 pairs of climbing shoes!! All participants who fill out a log book atleast half way and drop them into one of three banker boxes no later than December 15th!! along the tour will receive a free t-shirt and will be entered to win the grand prize. Share all of your thoughts and be original in your delivery and it just might pay off!! Read More...

McColl Does Second Ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14D)
Sean McColl sent one of the toughest routes in North America by conquering Dreamcatcher a route first sent by Chris Sharma 4 years ago. The crux finishing moves were completed the first try by McColl and proves that his hard comp climbing in Europe is paying off. Congrats Sean!! Read More...

Jonathan Siegrist Establishes New Area Called Wizards Gate!
After many days of trail work, cleaning and bolting, Jonathan Siegrist managed to establish 9 routes up at this new area he has dubbed 'Wizards Gate'. Including a number of great moderates, Jonathan also cleaned, bolted and F.A.ed a 12+/13- terror slab called 'Afterlife', an amazing, long 13c called 'Cloak and Dagger', another brilliant and bouldery 13c/d called 'Magic Carpet Ride' and a wicked link up that combines both routes cruxes called 'Black Magic' 14a. Read More...

Jason Kruk, Will Stanhope, and Matt Segal First Ascent in the Bugaboos
The Canadian-American trio of Jason Kruk, Will Stanhope, and Matt Segal have completed the first free ascent of the west face of Howser Spire’s Central Tower in the Bugaboos at 5.12+. Tucked between the well-known South Tower (see 50 Classic Climbs) and the El Capitan–sized North Tower, the smaller Central Tower was only climbed by the west face for the first time in 1999, when two separate lines went up. Kruk, Segal, and Stanhope used a three-pitch variation to free-climb Chocolate Fudge Brownie (VI 5.9 A2), established by Sean Isaac and Brian Webster. After being weathered off the route once, the three climbed the 10-pitch face in a long day, with the crux coming with a steep slab traverse to the right to avoid an un-freeable roof. Stanhope and Segal both took whippers from the crux before Kruk was able to link the moves, opening the door to the North Vancouver/Miami Variation. Following this effort, the trio added Hazel Findlay to the team for a free attempt on Sendero Norte, a link-up on the east face of Snowpatch Spire. The route links In Harm’s Way, some new ground, and Deus Ex Machina to create a free line up the striking 2,000-foot face. Chris Brazeau and Jon Walsh created this route, bolting several face-climbing variations, and nearly free-climbed it; Stanhope and Brazeau tried the route in 2008 and freed all but the crux pitch, which was wet. Enjoying warm, dry weather this summer, Stanhope led the crux fingertrip crack at 5.12+. On both routes, the leader free-climbed while the seconds followed without jumars but not free-climbing every move. Read More...

Sean McColl Places 3rd at IMST World Cup in Austria
Sean McColl placed 3rd in Mens lead at the IMST World Cup Event in Austria last weekend, Just behind Patxi Usobiaga (2nd) and Adam Ondra (1st). Excellent work Sean! Read More...

Renan Ozturk and Zack Smith in Alaska's Ruth Gorge
Renan Ozturk and Zack Smith recently traveled to Alaska's Ruth Gorge. Here is a video of their trip.

Renan Ozturk and Zack Smith in Alaska's Ruth Gorge from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Jason Kehl - Behind the Scenes at the Mammut Bouldering Championships
Jason Kehl just put together a behind the scenes video documenting his route setting experience at the Mammut Bouldering Championships in Salt Lake City during the Outdoor Retailer Show. Check it out! Cool perspective from a setters point of view. Read More...

Kevin Wilkinson First Ascent in Ten Sleep Canyon
Kevin Wilkinson put up a new 5.14 in Ten Sleep Canyon last week. Check out the video on Cedar Wright and Renan Ozturk's Blog, Verical Carnival Dispatches. Read More...

Ptarmigan Traverse in 14.5 Hours
Colin Abercrombie and Leor Pantilat completed the famous Ptarmigan Traverse in the North Cascades of Washington in 14 hours 36 minutes in late July. The two men timed the route from the Cascade Pass trailhead to the Downey Creek trailhead. The previous fastest known time for this traverse, 15 hours 40 minutes, was by Joe Stock and Andrew Wexler. Abercrombie and Pantilat had previously done an 18:10 traverse in 2008. The Ptarmigan Traverse is an off-trail route that covers approximately 30 miles of glacial and scrambling terrain, with more than 10,000 feet of elevation gain. It is normally completed in about a week. Read More...

Daniel Woods Wins Mammut Bouldering Championship
Daniel Woods dominated the men's final, flashing three of the four problems and topping out on the remaining problem on his second attempt. Only one other climber, Paul Robinson, flashed any of the final problems; Julian Bautista topped out on all four problems in a total of 10 attempts, good enough to grab second place. Congrats Daniel! Read More...

Reel Rock Tour
Here is the latest news from the REEL ROCK Tour: Reminding all first-time, amateur and seasoned filmmakers: The submission deadline for year’s REEL ROCK Filmmaking Competition is July 20! Enter your best 2-minute Humor/Spoof or Action/Inspiration film before it’s too late! Check out: http://www.reelrocktour.com/#/contest for details. The fourth annual REEL ROCK Film Tour is coming to a venue near you this September and October delivering the best in cutting-edge climbing and adventure entertainment. This year REEL ROCK brings you the world premiere of Progression, the latest release from Big UP Productions. Also catch the sneak preview of the brand new series First Ascent, co- produced by Sender Films and Nat Geo Adventure Channel. Back by popular demand are the two winning short films from this year’s REEL ROCK Filmmaking Competition. Vote for your favorite films online starting in August. Gear giveaways, appearances by top climbers, and fundraising for non-profits always add to the fun and community spirit of REEL ROCK events. Come and celebrate your passion for climbing and outdoor adventure! Check out www.reelrocktour.com for more information and tour schedule. New shows and details are being added daily, so check back often! Interested in bringing REEL ROCK to your community? Email joss@reelrocktour.com to set up a show. For the latest news, join the 2009 REEL ROCK Film Tour Facebook page and Twitter at https://twitter.com/REELROCK09 Read More...

Kate Rutherford Free Climbs New Wall in Namibia, Africa
Kate Rutherford, Majka Burhardt, and Peter Doucette have climbed two new big wall routes: Southern Crossing (V 5.11+) and Painted Giraffe (V 5.9+), on the 1300-foot Orabeskopf Wall in Southeastern Africa. Read More...

Barr Trail Report – Team members tear it up!
A number of people flew in as the BTMR is a stop on the La Sportiva Mountain Cup, but as Mike Selig said, “Those Colorado Springs boys have it wired. They’re good at altitude, know the course, and this is the race they really train for.” Indeed, on the Mens side, Colorado (and Manitou) Springs runners took 1st thru 4th, as well as 8th, 10th, and 12th. Shiloh Mielke and Jason Bryant came out from North Carolina to contend for the Cup, and earned valuable points running respectable 6th and 9th places. Jason said, “A great experience; nice to meet more La Sportiva Teammates. It’s the best I’ve run at altitude, even though at 9,500′ I got a little dizzy; on the turnaround I was better placed but couldn’t get my head cleared until a couple miles down. Wherever you are, you get used to it – North Carolina has it’s challenges – this is a good, honest course, so the challenge here is the altitude.” The Women’s side was expected to be very competitive, which was a accurate, as two women went under the previous Course Record, which was set just last year. Brandy Erholtz, currently the dominant female mountain runner in the States, became the first woman to run under 1:50 with a 1:49:08. Megan Kimmel also ran under the previous CR with a 1:50:09; along with Stacey Chamberlain of Boulder, all three set age group records. Caitlin Smith, alone in the first 70 people in Women’s field that came from sea level, was 4th in 1:54:52, a time that would have won this race the majority of previous years. There were four women present who were current or past members of the US National Team. “It was beautiful,” said Caitlin. “A beautiful trail; so happy I came out here for it. It was great meeting everyone.” ” And the altitude kicked my ass.” Of the top 7 Women in the current Mountain Cup standings, 6 were at this race! Only Keri Nelson was missing. Current leading Master Lisa Goldsmith said, “Another really good day at Barr Trail. Super great to see the other runners coming in for it. That’s what makes it fun; good runners push you to be your best. I get inspired at races like this to get in better shape and come back. Heard from a few people, ‘Your team did really well!’ (La Sportiva Women were 2nd, 4th, 8th, and 12th overall, and the Men were 4th, 5th, 7th, 9th and 12th). It would have been even stronger if Laura (Haefeli) was here, but she was preparing for the Selection Race in two weeks.” Megan Kimmel will also be at the Cheyenne Cañon race in two weeks, as will Brandy, who took a 2 minute lead into the turnaround on Sunday and probably eased up in preparation. This was Megan’s first BTMR, and said, “Definitely a classic run. It asks for a lot – the grade isn’t steep, but it stays consistent and makes you work the whole way. On the way down it’s the same – it just keeps going, really fast the whole way. It was awesome running with Brandy; we sort of bonded in Europe last year. The Selection Race is going to be really fast.” Matt Carpenter, who clocked still another dominating win at age 44, said, “Both races were decided by less than a minute. But both had a cushion at the top allowing for the luxury of some downhill cruise control. The Women were tearing it up with 3 of the 4 course records coming from them.” (Note – The 4th was Eddie Baxter breaking my age group record). Matt not only runs a great race, but puts the same effort into Race Directing. ALL Entry Fees are given to local charitable organizations, and that is made possible by the Pikes Peak National Bank being the Presenting Sponsor, which picks up the expenses. In addition, La Sportiva is the shoe sponsor, contributing a new pair of shoes to every age-group winner. MOUNTAIN CUP Brandy accumulated a whopping 28 points for this event, as one receives 2 bonus points for each runner beaten who was in the top ten. At a highly competitive event such as this, she thus earned 20 for the win and 8 bonus. This makes perfect sense, as competitive events such as the BTMR are much harder to place well, so one should be rewarded for doing so. Shiloh is dominating the Men with 52 pts, having raced all 4 Mountain Cup events so far. Since he’s 18 pts ahead of 2nd place, he would appear to wrap up the title, but while he clearly intends to repeat his overall title from last year, it’s not a sure thin as only 5 events can count toward scoring, in order to prevent someone from simply out-traveling another competitor. Brandy has 50 pts, two less than Shiloh, but scored that after only two races – both were the most competitive of the entire series, so maximum points were earned. Overall Standings are HERE. Note that while only the Top Ten are shown, points are kept for everyone who have scored, so the Top Ten can change and all points will count. The Mountain Cup moves next to either Squaw Valley or Eldora, both in 3 weeks. Strategy may be employed as runners pick their remaining events to contend, and the very next weekend offers two events to choose from as well. Those weekends will really sort out the Cup, as those who are serious about contending will simply have to be there. Traveling the country, spending your summer running what are 10 of the absolute best trail races in the country, meeting and making new friends each time … good times! In more ways than one. By Buzz Burrell Read More...

Sean Mcoll Dominates at World Championships in China
Sean McColl made the finals in both lead climbing and bouldering at the World Championships in Qinghai, China. He is the only climber to achieve this remarkable feat. His 43rd place in speed, 6th place in bouldering and 5th place in lead gave him the most overall points and the title. However, no North American gained the podium in the biannual competitions’ three big events. For a photo gallery of Sean's efforts at the World Championships please visit: http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/gallery/sean_mccoll_wins_overall_title_at_world_climbing_championships/ Read More...

Jenny Capel Wins the Montrail UltraCUP
Jenny Capel won the Montrail UltraCUP on Sunday. Congrats Jenny! Read More...

Bighorn Trail 100 Race Featured on Newy York Times Website
There is a great writeup on the Bighorn Trail 100 Race in Wyoming on the NY Times website featuring the Crosslite! Check it out! Read More...

Loren Rausch Climbing In Alaska
Loren Rausch just made it back from Alaska. There was some poor weather, and some great weather. Loren started her trip out by sitting in the tent for 6 days while is snowed, she skied boot top powder every day however. Loren then attempted to climb the Mooses Tooth via the Ham and Eggs Couloir. The route was in poor condition, requiring aiding off of ice tools on the "ice" (overhanging sugar snow). She climbed past the technical cruxes (about 11 pitches up) then bailed due to poor conditions. They had a 50 hour push with one open bivy, with only a single sleeping bag between them. The team tried skiing the Japanese couloir on Mount Barrille, but conditions were bad (they ended up skiing 1/3rd of the couloir). The team did climb the couloir to the top and summited at midnight. She then tried climbing the Muggs Stump route, Goldfinger. They made it 2.5 pitches up beautiful rock before sheeting water turned them around.

Honnold and Leary Set a New Speed Record on Salathe
Alex Honnold and Sean Leary have climbed the Salathé Wall on Yosemite's El Capitan in a record 4 hours and 55 minutes. After that, in the scorching heat, the pair ran up the Nose in 7 hours. It's reported that they planed to climb Half Dome next but were too exhausted. Read More...

Madaleine Sorkin Frees West Face of Leaning Tower
Madaleine Sorkin became the third woman to free the West Face of Leaning Tower in Yosemite, California. Read More...

Joe Kinder tearing it up in Utah and Nevada
About a month ago Joe sent a major project of his called the Re-Up and graded 14d. This is an outstanding line that links two 14b/c routes together for a stamina monster. You can see the video of the Re-Up on Deadpoint Mag's site here....http://deadpointmag.com/ Joe also put up another first ascent of a hard boulder problem project in a little cave called the Virgin Cave. He called this one Bovice. Check out the video here...http://vimeo.com/4694264 Joe also made it to Mt. clark in California and sent Jumbo Pumping Hate second go as well as two other 13cs second go. You can see the actual send on Deadpoint's site as well...http://deadpointmag.com/ And the second go ascent of Dios Mios an epic 13c on amazing white rock....check it out here....http://vimeo.com/4851983 Read More...

Paige Claasen sending in Rifle
Paige Claasen sent Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle on Tuesday! So Strong! She is headed to Europe to compete in the world Cup in July and August.

Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado - Results
Daniel Woods placed 2nd in the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado on Saturday. The event, hosted by Teva, was part of the Teva Mountain Games and there were over 70 competitors from across the world. Nice work Daniel! Read More...

Caitlin Smith - Diablo 25k Course Record
Caitlin Smith ran the Diablo 25k on Saturday and was the first woman and set the course record! This past weekend the La Sportiva Mountain Cup (iRF's LSMC coverage) headed clear across the country for the Mount Diablo 25k run just a few miles east of Oakland, California. There on the flanks of the aptly-named Mount Diablo the LSMC participants would face an even greater challenge than they did last week at the Rock2Rock Run - 4,450' of elevation gain in just 25k. Fortunately, unseasonable cool temperatures beneath a marine layer set the stage for course record crushing performances... but with the talent being attracted to the LSMC races that's becoming the trend regardless of the weather! Read More...

Official Website For Copp, Dash and Johnson Search
Please consider a donation to help with search efforts. For up to date information on the Copp, Dash and Johnson search check this site. Until we meet again, sending love and prayers to your families and entire community... Read More...

Please donate to the Copp, Dash & Johnson search fund now!
Three Boulder, Colorado climbers—Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson are overdue, having missed their flight on June 3 from Chengdu, China. The three traveled to Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet) on the Minya Konka massif, Western Sichuan Province, China. Copp and Dash are highly experienced alpinists and professional climbers who have many years experience tackling big unclimbed mountains around the world. They received the Lyman Spitzer Grant Award for this expedition from the American Alpine Club in 2008 but had to delay the climb until now, due to political unrest in the region. Johnson (a photographer with Sender Films) was accompanying Dash and Copp to base camp and did not intend to attempt the climb to the summit. On June 4, 2009, a small party of experienced climbers, organized through the Sichuan Mountaineering Association, arrived in “base camp” and are preparing to continue up to the “advanced base camp” to gather information. Search efforts are being professionally coordinated by friends and colleagues in Boulder and more climbers from China and the US are being deployed to the area. Developing information will be shared as soon as it is available. “We’re taking all the necessary steps to gather information about the climbers’ whereabouts and haven’t identified any complications beyond their lateness. Although we’re concerned, in alpine climbing it’s not unusual to for climbers to be delayed or out of contact for this long. We are still hopeful,” says Robb Shurr, spokesperson for the search effort. This search operation will be costly and any financial assistance that can be made will be incredibly helpful in terms of mounting the best search and rescue operation possible. Please donate to the search fund now. Read More...

Leor Pantilat and Caitlin Smith Win the Ohlone Wilderness 50k
Leor Pantilat and Caitlin Smith ran in the Ohlone Wilderness 50k on Sunday and both won and set course records. Check out the Mountain Running Blog for a full write up. Read More...

La Sportiva Athletes Clean Up at the Rock2Rock
The 3rd annual Rock2Rock 10k Trail Run saw beautiful weather, a grueling course and national caliber competition as it was the kick-off race for the 2009 La Sportiva Mountain Cup, a top-flight series of 10 events across the United States. 2008 winners and Asheville locals (and brother/sister) Shiloh Mielke and Meadow Tarves were clear favorites, but they would be challenged by top runners from around the country ... the La Sportiva Mountain Cup and it's $25,000 in overall prize money brought some of the big guns from out of state. Read More...

Full Slate of American Alpine Club's 2009 Grants Announced
Golden, Colorado; May 20, 2009: The American Alpine Club experienced a 32% increase in applications for its fiscal 2009 grants program, and responded by awarding 11% more funding to climbers than in fiscal 2008. The AAC provides more grants to climbers than any other U.S. organization; this year the club awarded $43,900 to climbers and to those who research and conserve climbing environments. The increase in funding comes at a time when AAC membership also continues to grow, up 9% for the fiscal year to date (October-April), compared to the same period last year. Growing corporate support for the AAC, including its grants program, contributed to the organization’s ability to step up its commitment to the climbing community. A full list of 2009 recipients can be found on the final page; project snapshots follow. Read More...

2009 REEL ROCK FILMMAKING COMPETITION ANNOUNCED
The 2009 REEL ROCK Film Tour (www.reelrocktour.com), presented by Sender Films and Big UP Productions is now accepting submissions for the 2009 REEL ROCK FILMMAKING COMPETITION. If you have a camera, computer, and a fresh idea, one of the short REEL ROCK ‘09 films could be yours! Building on the popularity of the 2008 filmmaking competition — in which tens of thousands of people voted for their favorite Humor/Spoof and Action/Adventure films — the 2009 competition has expanded with new rules and new prizes. Winning filmmakers will receive $500 in cash and rake in grand prize packages from title sponsors Windstopper and The North Face, gear sponsors Petzl Equipment and Sterling Ropes, and media sponsors Climbing Magazine and Urban Climber. The winning films, one from each genre category — as chosen by voters online and REEL ROCK judges — will be featured on the 2009 REEL ROCK Film Tour in over 100 locations worldwide. Submission deadline is July 20, 2009 Read More...

Austria rocks wc; Mccoll, Woods in top 10
Austria dominated the IFSC Bouldering World Cup May 2-3 in Hall, Austria, with wins for the men's, womens, and team competitions. The women's gold medal was a tie between Japans Akiyo Noguchi and Austrias Anna Stöhr, who both flashed the superfinal set up for them. The Austrian strongman Killian Fischhuber won the men's competition, while Vancouver's Sean McColl and Daniel Woods of Colorado made the top 10 in ninth and 10th. A first-hand account of the comp can be found on Sean's website: http://seanmccoll.com. Read More...

Kinder Links 5.14d FA in Utah
Joe Kinder has completed a link-up of two 5.14 routes at the Wailing Wall in southwestern Utah to create a 5.14d line called The Re-Up, the hardest route he has redpointed and one of the most difficult in the country. The Re-Up starts with the long crux passage of Unforgivable (5.14b/c), a route Kinder climbed in early April, shortly after Daniel Woods made the first ascent. After a “medium rest” and a leftward traverse, the route finishes with the long 5.14a crux of Schlachthaus Funf (“Slaughterhouse 5”). Read More...

Direct Start of Unforgivable
Joe Kinder bolted and prepped a direct start into the 5.13b Treebeard at the Wailing Wall cave in Southern Utah. In late March, Daniel Woods was able to complete the first ascent of Unforgivable (5.14b/c) in just a couple of tries. Joe made the route's second ascent after eight days of effort. Check out the commercial video he made for his sponsor Gregory Packs, which contains footage of his ascent. Read More...

La Sportiva athletes: woods, Kinder and Cardwell sending in St. George
A crew of strong climbers based out of St. George, Utah, has been sending hard at the Wailing Wall. Daniel Woods got the first ascent of a Joe Kinder project called Unforgivable, redpointing the route on just his second try; Kinder soon made the second ascent. Woods called it 5.14b/c, but Kinder believes it’s 5.14c. Read More...

Lauren Lee latest send, The Present, 5.14a
Lauren Lee just sent her project, The Present, "5.14a in thirty heinous feet!" Already moving on to a route in Zion...gal is on FIRE... Hopefully more details soon!

Leor Pantilat & Catlin Smith Win Big @ Way too Cool 50km
What was deemed one of the the most competitive fields, the 2009 Way to Cool 50km saw was stacked with favorites and lots of dark horses. Leor Pantilat and Catlin Smith took 1st Male and 1st Female! Congrats! Read More...

Matt Segal's new line Smart Went Crazy-5.13+ R/X
Matt Segal climbed a new 5.13+ R/X trad line in the Kloof Alcove in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. After toproping the route successfully and testing the fall by throwing a loaded pack from the crux, Segal led Smart Went Crazy, taking a couple of falls from the beginning of the V10/11 crux passage before he linked the whole climb. Read More...

JC Hunter Breaks the Law 5.14c
On February 24, Jacinda “JC” Hunter clipped the chains on Dave Graham’s Breaking the Law (5.14b) at the Black and Tan wall in Southern Utah. The first woman to climb the route, Hunter spent most of this winter working the project. Hunter’s ascent of Breaking the Law marks one of the hardest female redpoints in the country, surpassed only by Beth Rodden’s Meltdown, a mere letter grade harder at 5.14c. Hunter is only the third American woman to send 5.14b, behind Beth Rodden and Emily Harrington. Unlike Rodden or Harrington, Hunter has four kids and a full-time nursing job. The kids tag along on Hunter’s trips, exploring the area as mom works her project on the crag above. Read More...

Daniel Woods takes 1st at adult Bouldering Nationals, Boulder, CO
Daniel Woods and Alex Johnson won the adult Bouldering National Championship at the Spot gym in Boulder, competing in a field that included some international superstars of bouldering

Colin Haley takes on Supercanaleta-Fitzroy, Patagonia
Colin Haley has done a rare solo ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, via the Supercanaleta (a.k.a. Super Couloir), the amazing ice and mixed line that splits the mountain’s west face. Haley completed the mile-high ascent in a little over 14 hours from the bergschrund to the summit. This is the second known solo ascent of the Supercanaleta (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90°), according to Patagonia historian Rolando Garibotti. Read More...

Dawn Glanc and Will Mayo take on Ouray Comp
On a extra spicy Vince Anderson mixed route, La Sportiva Athlete Dawn Glanc took 1st place, Will Mayo took 2nd and Pablo Stein gave an amazing crowd pleasing performance for 7th at the Ouray Competition. Congratulations! Read More...

McColl Wins Gold at IFSC National American Climbing Championship
The IFSC North American Climbing Championships yielded another gold medal finish for Canadian Sean McColl. This win assures McColl the title of 2009 North American champion and adds to his impressive list of national and international victories. Visiting Americans swept every other gold medal in the lead category with Tiffany Hensley winning the women’s open. Canadian men dominated the speed climbing event with John Bowles taking gold, Benoit Dubois silver and Dan Archambault bronze. More details here and here. Men’s Results 1. Sean McColl (CAN) 2. Mauricio Herta (MEX) 3. Bret Johnston (USA) Women’s Results 1. Tiffany Hensley (USA) 2. Paige Claassen (USA) 3. Emily Harrington (USA) Read More...

Vote for Athlete Heidi Wirtz Inspiring Soles
La Sportiva athlete Heidi Wirtz is in the running for the Inspiring Soles award. If enough votes are cast for her cause, Girls Education International, the organization will be awarded $25,000! Girls Education International, which works closely with communities in mountainous regions of the world to expand and support educational opportunities for women and girls. Learn more by going to http://girlsed.org Read More...

Alex Honnold is getting after it in the UK
La Sportiva Athlete Alex Honnold and Matt Segal have been busy on run-outs in the UK- Check out the link to see the list- Read More...

Wilkinson, Bergman, Ditto and Goodman bag unclimbed Indian Spire
Inspired by a postcard-size photo that Freddie Wilkinson had seen in a shop, Janet Bergman, Ben Ditto, Pat Goodman, and Wilkinson planned to attempt new routes in the Manikaran Spires, southeast of Manali in Himachal Pradesh. Read More...

Golden Climbing Shoes Award Seoul, South Korea
On Friday 7th of November, the first edition of the Golden Climbing Shoes Award will be held in Seoul, the capital of South Korea: an appointment set to become an important annual event in the Far Eastern mountaineering scenario. Thirty journalists from all over the world will elect the Far Eastern athlete to be awarded this first, exclusive title for outstanding performance in both indoor and outdoor climbing competitions. Read More...

Hound Ears Bouldering
Check out the report on the first event of the Triple Crown- Hound Ears, NC Read More...

Alex Honnold Free Solos Half Dome
Alex Honnold made his mark in the Valley again on September 6, 2008 with the first free solo of the Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.12a, 23 pitches) on Half Dome. Perhaps Honnold's greatest achievement prior was his landmark free solo of Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12+, 9 pitches), Zion National Park, Utah. Read More...

La Sportiva Mountain Cup Wraps Up, Vail, CO
The La Sportiva Mountain Cup wrapped up, appropriately enough, in Vail, Colorado, one of the capitals of mountain running in North America. Vail created a special course just for this event, which was greatly appreciated by these runners in particular, who were a "who's who" in the sport; it was like a mountain running convention. Every top placement - 12 in all - could still change when the gun went off at Sunday 9 AM. The final overall standings reflected the state of the sport today: some very close finishes, plenty of familiar names re-asserting their fitness, as well as new names getting closer to the podium. Read More...

Magic Mushroom in 20 hours- Tommy Caldwell goes huge
20 hours and 2 minutes — that’s how long it took Tommy Caldwell to free-climb Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a), a strong contender for the world’s hardest big wall, in a single push, leading every pitch Read More...

Sean McColl takes the top spot at the Tour De Bloc Bouldering Championships
For the third consecutive year, Canadian wunderkind Sean McColl took top spot at the Tour De Bloc Bouldering Championships this past weekend (May 18, 2008), having little challenge defeating a strong field of contenders. Read More...

Caldwell and Sjong first free ascent of Magic Mushroom
After working the route for five weeks, Caldwell and Sjong began their free ascent on May 12 at 5 a.m. Climbing ground up in a push, they each freed every pitch, swinging leads. The route is reported as very high quality, and very steep: the top twelve pitches overhang the entire way. Though the 5.14a crux of the Dihedral Wall (VI 5.8 A3, Baldwin-Cooper-Denny, 1962), which Caldwell freed at 5.14a in 2005, is perhaps more difficult than any single move on Magic Mushroom, Magic Mushroom is far more sustained, with eleven 5.13 or 5.14 pitches and nine 5.12 to 5.12+ pitches. Read More...

Meltzer and McDowell take 2nd & 3rd at the Jemez 50 mile
The Third Annual Jemez Mountain Trail Runs took place under perfect conditions just west of Los Alamos, New Mexico. La Sportiva athletes Karl Meltzer and Nate McDowell took 2nd and 3rd. See the race report here! Read More...

First Ascent of Bat Ears by Sportiva Athletes
Ben Gilmore, Maxime Turgeon, and Freddie Wilkinson have completed the first ascent of the Bat’s Ears, an 11,044-foot peak that was possibly the highest unclimbed major summit in the Alaska Range. Read More...

Colorado Headpoint Gets Four Repeats
The trad-style/headpoint testpiece Must’a Been High (5.13c R), on the Rincon Wall in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, saw a record four ascents over a three-week period in late February, early March. Read More...

Daniel Woods magic v13
On April, 28 American Daniel Woods, 18, made a first ascent of Metamorphosis (V13) in Switzerland's granite bouldering mecca, Magic Woods. Woods, who placed third at the Bouldering World Cup ten days prior too his big FA, commented on his 8a.nu scorecard that the roof problem of Metamorphosis is steep and powerful. Read More...

Daniel Woods Takes 3rd in Bouldering World Cup
Daniel Woods finished third in the first bouldering World Cup of 2008, in Hall, Austria. The podium finish was Woods’ best result ever at a European competition. Read More...

2008 REEL ROCK FILMMAKING COMPETITION
The annual REEL ROCK Film Tour is gearing up for it's third season, with 100 or more screenings of the world's best climbing films coming to a city near you this fall. If you have a camera, a computer, and a fresh idea, one of the featured films could be yours! The first ever REEL ROCK Filmmaking Competition is accepting submissions of short films (3 minutes max) in two categories: Action/Adventure, and Humor/Spoof, through July 15. Judges at Big UP Productions and Sender Films will select the top entries in each category and post them for online voting. The two winners will have their films featured on the REEL ROCK Tour, and will rake in grand prize packages from Windstopper, The North Face, Petzl, Osprey Packs, La Sportiva and Climbing and Urban Climber magazines. Check out the REEL ROCK site for sample films and submission guidelines, then get those creative juices flowing, fire up the camcorders and laptops, and hit us with your best shot! Read More...

Alex Honnold Free Solos Moonlight Buttress
Alex Honnold Free Solos Moonlight Buttress...it is confirmed...more details to follow. Read More...

Audrey Gariepy cleans up in Icefall Brook Canyon, CA
In under ten days Audrey Gariepy, Caroline George, Jen Olson, Ines Papert and Jon Walsh blasted ten remote ice (up to WI6) and mixed (up to M12) routes, likely all new, in Icefall Brook canyon, Canadian Rockies. After taking a helicopter to the remote area, the five set up base camp within an hour of their farthest objective and climbed from March 11-19. Read More...

Beth Rodden Redpoints Meltdown- 5.14c
After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yosemite National Park, California. Read More...

Lacelle and Gariepy Unearth Huge Ice Walls in Norway
Over two weeks in early February some of the world's best ice climbing talent—Guy Lacelle, Audrey Gariepy and Mathieu Audibert—ventured to Norway with filmmakers Chris Alstrin and Alex Lavigne in search of untapped ice. Even Lacelle, the ice expert who had been to Norway six times prior, was shocked at the quality and quantity of their discoveries. Within two weeks the team of four (Alstrin climbed; Lavigne was filming throughout) established six ice lines, likely all virgin and all at least 250 meters in length. Read More...

Paige Classen and Sean McColl take 3rd in Bouldering Nationals
Huge crowds gathered ti the Spot Gym in Boulder, concluding Season 9 of the American Bouldering Series. Congrats to Paige Classen and Sean McColl for taking 3rd. Read More...

New Englanders Complete Huge Traverse in Patagonia
New Hampsherites Dana “Mad Dog” Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson have done a superb three-day traverse of Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, and Fitz Roy by its North Pillar. The traverse was the culmination of three warm-up climbs, including two new routes or variations, completed during the incredible high-pressure system that settled over the Fitz Roy massif during the second half of January. Read More...

Garibotti and Haley Complete Torre Traverse
Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley have completed the much-discussed—and occasionally attempted—Torre Traverse: the link-up of Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre in a single alpine-style outing. Congratulations! Read More...

La Sportiva Athletes Jonny Copp and Micah Dash win the Mugs Stump Award
La Sportiva athletes Micah Dash and Jonny Copp just won the Mugs Stump Award for an unclimbed granite mountain in Tibet. Climbing the first ascent of Dojitsenga (5800m), a triangular, alpine rock peak, all free in Alpine Style... The mountain lies between Rawu and Lhagu in the Kangri Garpo range of South Eastern Tibet. The peak has never seen an ascent.

Sean McColl Storms Bishop Bouldering
Since the end of December, La Sportiva athlete Sean McColl has sent Direction (V13) and Xavier's Roof (V12) in the Buttermilks; he also flashed a couple of V11 problems and added V11 sit starts to existing routes at the Sads. McColl completed The Mandala SDS (V13) once the snow melted...Congrats Read More...

Ouray Ice Fest Report
At 2008 Ouray Ice Competition, seventeen competitors qued up in near-zero temps for a go on what was certainly North America’s most unique—and exciting—mixed comp route ever. Congrats to La Sportiva Athletes- Audrey Gariepy, Will, Mayo, Guy Lacelle and Maxime Turgeon Read More...

Sir Edmund Hillary Passes Away
Legendary mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary has died at age of 88. Hillary is perhaps the world's best-known climber, thrust into the limelight for his and Tenzing Norgay's first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953, an event said by some as one of the finest exploratory achievements of the 20th century. Read More...

Colin Haley Summited Aguja Descomochada, Patagonia
Colin Haley spent Christmas climbing the rarely summited Aguja Desmochada in Patagonia via a partial new route. Colin Haley and Carsten von Birckhahn climbed the Northeast Ridge of Aguja Desmochada, completing “by far the easiest route on this difficult-to-reach summit, but [one that] will likely never become the voie normale.” Read More...

Will Mayo's success on Cannon Cliff, NH
New Englanders Andy Tuthill and Will Mayo have climbed a difficult new mixed route on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire, 200 feet to the left of Omega (IV 5+) and just right of the Henderson Buttress. Read More...

Chris Sierzant takes 3rd in Triple Crown
La Sportiva athlete,Chris Sierzant, took 3rd at the Triple Crown- the biggest competition in the Southeast. The event is a fund-raiser for the Southeastern Climbers’ Coalition and the Carolina Climbers’ Coalition and draws climbers from across the country. Congrats Chris! Read More...

La Sportiva Mountain Runners Chris Lundy and Anita Ortiz Mountain Runners of the year!
La Sportiva Mountain Runners Chris Lundy and Anita Ortiz are both awarded honors by the USATF as Mountain Runners of the Year. Read More...

Vasya sends 5.15a Jaws II
Vasya Vorotnikov has re-redpointed Jaws at Rumney, New Hampshire, after several key holds broke, giving it a new name (Jaws II) and a whopping big grade: 5.15a. HOLY WOW! Read More...

Four new route and three new summits for La Sportiva athlete Freddie Wilkinson
An American expedition completed four new routes in the Miyar Valley of India’s Himachel Pradesh mountains, climbing all free and bagging three virgin summits. Read More...

LaSportiva Mountain Running Athletes take 1st in Imogene Pass Run
Bernie Boettcher and Lisa Goldsmith take fist in the Imogene Pass Run. Congrats! Read More...

LaSportiva Trail Runner Tropy Series Down to the Wire
The La Sportiva Trail Runner Trophy Series enters its final month, early summer point-earners hold firmly onto top positions and only 19 races remain in the 2007 Trophy Series calendar. Read More...

Jonny Copp FA on the 19,200-foot “Shafat Fortress” in Kashmir, India.
Jonny Copp made a speedy, alpine-style first ascent of the 19,200-foot “Shafat Fortress” in Kashmir, India. Read More...

Haley and Westman send the Denali Diamond
Colin Haley and Mark Westman climbed the Denali Diamond route on McKinley's southwest face in June 2007. The pair is probably the fifth party to climb this asthetic line. Read more at Read More...

Daniel Woods nabs FA in RMNP
Daniel Woods has sent a new problem that has thwarrted many a suitor. Jade, known as Green 45, goes at V15. Read more at Read More...

Daniel Woods sends V13+
Daniel Woods has climbed a V13+ in Eldorado Canyon. To see photos and find out more about Suspension Disbelief go to Read More...

Mt Huntington Climbed in Winter
Colin Haley and Jed Brown made the probable first winter ascent of Mt Huntington in the Alaska Range. The pair made a rapied ascent of the West Face Couloir. Read more at Read More...

Ryan Nelson and Crystal Davis Robbins put up new route in Patagonia
February 11th, Ryan Nelson and Crystal Davis-Robbins established The Art of War (3300 feet, V 5.12a A2) on the South Face of Aguja de L's. To read more about the climb go here Read More...

Stephen Koch puts up a new route on The Grand
Hans Johnstone and Stephen Koch have established a new mixed route on the North Face of the Grand Teton. Squeeze Box (IV M7 A0) is a 1000 foot line splitting a steep granite buttress. read the story and see pics at Read More...

Daniel Woods wins ABS National Bouldering Championship
Daniel Woods has won another ABS Bouldering Nationals at the Earth Treks gym in Maryland on the weekend of February 17-19. Read more at Read More...

Mugs Stump Awards announced
The fifteenth annual Mugs Stump Awards grants have been announced and 3 of the 5 grants have been awarded to La Sportiva athletes and their partners. Among the recipients are new La Sportiva team member Colin Haley, Maxime Turgeon and Bean Bowers. To read more about the awards go to Read More...

Simone Moro attempting winter ascent of Broad Peak
Simone Moro has now reached basecamp on Broad Peak and is set for the summit bid for a winter ascent. Read more at Read More...

Cordes and Haley complete new link up on Cerro Torre
Colin Haley and Kelly Cordes have completed a fast alpine style ascent of a link up of two routes on Cerro Torre. The Masigny-Parkin line to the Col of Hope was strung together with the original 1974 route up the West Ridge to the summit. To read more check here Read More...

Near Miss in Nyainqentanglha
La Spotiva sales rep Mark Wilford along with Jim Lowther and Mark Richey came up just short on an attempt to climb Nenang an unclimbed 22,539 foot peak in far eastern Tibet. Read more and see great pictures here Read More...

La Sportiva launches Zero waste initiative
Here at La Sportiva N.A. Inc in Bouder, CO we have teamed up with Eco-Cycle to become a zero waste company. We will reuse, recycle and compost 90% of the waste from our facility in an effort to reduce our impact on the earth. Read More...

Woods sends in Frogtown
Daniel Woods made an impressive week-long, whirlwind visit to the Virgin River Gorge where he made an onsight ascent of Hell Comes to Frogtown (5.13d) on October 22, as well as ticking the VRG testpiece Necessary Evil (5.14c) in six attempts over four days, on October 28. Read More...

Bean Bowers and friends establish New Route on Mt Moran
Stealing a last bit of summer, Bean Bowers, Greg Collins, and Hans Johnstone onsighted a 5.12 new route on the South Buttress of Mt. Moran in Grant Teton National Park on September 29. Read More...

Daniel Woods sends Ode to the Modern Man V14
In September Daniel Woods sent Ode to the Modern Man a new V14 at Mt Evans. Read More...

Angela Eiter onsights 8B
The Austrian, Angela Eiter onsighted Skyline 8B at Burs, Austria. Read More...