My first pair of climbing shoes were hand-me-down La Sportiva tradmasters, so I wasn't used to shoes with any sort of downturn. After hearing how painful downturn shoes were, I was a little turned off by the idea of that sort of shoe; however, when I put these on, they were surprisingly not that bad (except for when you fall 15 feet straight onto your toes... ouch). They also only got more comfortable the more I wore them. The heel didn't feel like it fit me that well, but it has yet to slip off while doing heel-hooks. The shoes are great for small foot holds because of the small toe box, and the rubber is so grippy! I'm almost afraid to climb in them because I don't want to wear them out too fast. Whenever they get worn down, i'm definitely re-purchasing them.
(Posted on 1/5/2017)
Three years ago, I pulled my very first pair of Womens Miura VS climbing shoes out of the box and stuffed them into my climbing pack. I hiked up to the Monastery near Glenhaven, Colorado, and after a quick warm up, I pulled out my shiny white shoes, dubbed my Scooby Doos because of their flower design. I ripped the tag off, slipped them on, and sent Grand Ol Opry (5.14b). First time out of the box, and they worked like a charm. Three weeks ago, I tested my VS shoes on Americas first 5.14, To Bolt or Not to Be. After 7 days of effort, they carried me to the top, sticking precisely to each smeary little edge I encountered throughout the 110 feet of blank vertical climbing. Nicely broken in and well loved, they withstood the test.A few days later, I took that exact same pair on a lap up Zebra Zion, a classic three pitch 5.10 gear route at Smith Rock. I didnt have a larger, comfy pair for long routes, since this was my third ever route beyond one pitch. So, I wore my snug little sport climbing pair, and my feet didnt hurt at all. Allegedly too tight and small for that style of climbing, my Miuras didnt fail me. How is it that one shoe can meet my every demand in a moments notice? LaSportiva created a down turned edging shoe, which sounds like a contradiction. Typically, down turned shoes are a bit softer, giving the climber more feeling and control of their footwork on steeper terrain. Edging shoes are typically flat and stiff, allowing the climber to stand on small, precise edges without the rubber rolling or the climbers arch being strained. But when you combine the power of a high performance down turned shoe with the precise edging capabilities of a stiffer shoe, you get the VS. But theres more to the VS than its ability to stand on dime edges. Its still a powerful pulling shoe, and Im more than comfortable wearing the Miura on steeper terrain. The VS also provides comfort in an age when climbing shoes are cranked down so small they squeeze the tears from your eyes. I say forget the idea that your shoes should be painfully small. If my feet hurt, Im unwilling to put all my weight on my feet and trust whole heartedly in my foot placements. With the VS, I dont have to downsize to a toddlers fit - just one size below my street shoes allows me to trust my toes. For that reason, the painful breaking in process is non-existent with the VS. Theyre ready to go straight off the sewing table in Italy. From that first time out of the box, the Womens Miura VS has been my most reliable friend and trusted climbing partner. I know well spend many more years on the rock together.
(Posted on 3/7/2016)
I sized up 1/2 size from my Men's Miura VS and climbed in the Women's model all summer. The softer rubber on the Miura VS W's was perfect for getting that extra friction during the greasy months and sizing up to the next 1/2 size eliminated any issue with the lower volume last. Miura VS W's is a great choice for male climbers looking for softer rubber or a slightly tighter heel cup.
(Posted on 8/1/2014)
My all time favorite climbing shoe is the Women's Miura VS. I love the higher arch, narrower width, and smaller toe box. The shoe edges great on vertical, but is down-turned enough to be aggressive on steep climbing.
(Posted on 7/29/2014)
The same performance of the M's VS but with a narrower fit, the W's Miura VS is my shoe du jour. Of all the shoes, its heel cup fits my foot the best. Aggressive enough, but not too much, they have been my right-hand man on the sticky southeastern sandstone. Reliable, trustworthy...if they weren't a pair of shoes, I might ask them out on a date.
(Posted on 12/7/2013)