Genius

I had 2 pairs of Solutions delaminate on me after less than 2 months, then the third time I decided to skip out on the solution all together. After a bit of research found that the Genius is essentially a Testarossa re-designed. The Genius fit my wide forefoot, and narrow heel very well. I really like the slipper fit that they have, and I don't even tie them up unless I know I have to heel hook. Had mine for 7 months now, I climb about 2-3 times a week in the gym alone and they haven't shown any significant wear. Very impressed with the durability. The only sign of wear is the LS logo rubbing off. The No-Edge is great too, I notice the sensitivity a lot and it gives you that confidence to trust microchips. But if you accidentally kick you foot into the wall, you really feel it. The color is loud and flashy, so bonus if you like that. Overall a great shoe that I would buy again. The performance, and fit is great enough that I can overlook the price.

I'm 2 months into owning the genius. I was advised they stretch moderately (1/2 size or so), and sized them as tight as I could walk without utter discomfort I wear a 37.5 python, 38 testarossa, 39 muira, and wear these in size 38. I found break in was basically 2 sessions at the gym. I think the heel is the best of any LS shoe currently on the market, it has a good combination of fit and sensitivity and enough rubber to cushion shaper holds. As for the edgeless sole while I appreciate the sensitivity I don't think it is anything special. Pythons are at least as sensitive, and when it comes to precision on small crystals and chips I turn to the testarossa. For me the genius is best suited to very steep climbing where versatility to toehook/heelhook are as important as toework.
For those concerend I have not found them to wear out excessivly fast I climb 2 days in 2 days outside per week.

I'm a 16 year old and high school and I've been DROOLING over these masterpieces. A friend let me try on his pair (exact same size feet), and they were magical. These miracles gripped footholds I'd previously thought impossible and let me perform much better in the gym (like i climbed my first 5.12b). They were also surprisingly comfortable even with their aggressive shape (which works wonders when climbing) and I had no problems with sweat. Nicest shoes to have ever graced my feet. Period. Sadly, considering the fact that I'm unemployed and in high school, I'm can't afford climbing shoes for $195!!! I'll have to continue to dream of these wall destroyers until I can one day afford them. Thanks for taking the time to read my review!

Ps My friend after extensive use has practically the same opinion as I, only including the fact that they are extremely durable.

Sadly the overall lifespan of these shoes are the reason I can't give it a better review. Worn for no more then 14 sessions. Two weeks overall. I had to send my otaki back for warranty repairs and need shoes for hueco tanks. In a pinch I grabbed these. Hated them
Until they broke in, then they were amazing. Then they were worn out.Contacted LS and they said it's normal to resole these every 3 months.!!! 200 bucks for shoes and the 45 bucks every 3 months??? Come on. Sadly the overall quality of Sportiva shoes has me leaving them for another brand. Money is clearly the motivation for them now.

I work as a mountain guide year round in Boulder, CO for the Colorado Mountain School. I climb in the gym a ton, and also try to spend a day or two a week on some hard projects outside, so needless to say my climbing ranges the gamut from steep hard bouldering to mellow 5.8 with clients. I've been wearing the genius for my steep climbing for about a month now. I have found the genius to be a very good show for very steep climbing, both outside and inside. The geniuses are very soft and sensitive making them not so ideal for times that you are standing on small edges for long times. The softness, the no edge, and the significant amount of rubber on the top make them ideal for the "pushing" and "pulling" that happens in the gym, on steep sandstone, and steep limestone. For these applications the geniuses are perfect. I sized them quite comfortably, only going down 1 from street shoe size. I do not think this has jeopardized the performance, but it has added to my comfort and enjoyment while spending long amounts of time hanging and projecting. They have really rounded out my shoe repertoire, and i'm quite psyched to see where they can take my climbing!

Great shoe - worth every penny!

No-Edge is a total beta changer! I've been a die-hard Solutions fan for ages, but I don't think I've worn them even once since I bought the Genius six months ago. I was holding out for the release of the new Skwama, but I caved and bought the Genius when the Skwama's release date was pushed back. Solutions were fantastic, but the break-in process what grueling to say the least. I know a lot of other climbers who agree. The Genius, which was even a full size smaller than my Solutions, fit like a slipper within two weeks (I usually climb 4-5 days a week) and the combination of an aggressive toe with such extreme sensitivity is a shockingly wonderful surprise. The heel cup isn't quite as pronounced as the Solution, which made it a little trickier to heel-hook, but you adjust really quickly and after a few climb sessions I didn't even notice anymore.

My only qualm with the Genius is the color combination, but that's just a personal opinion. I was worried that I'd hate having to constantly lace up the shoes, but they fit so well that I don't even have to untie them when putting them on. I've only taken them outdoors once, so I'm not sure how well such a sensitive toe lasts on the real rock, but they're perfect for the gym.

Used these in the crags of east tennessee, great shoe. Will be using a long time. Thanks La Sportiva.