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Climbing the Diga di Luzzone

Diga di LuzzoneThe Diga di Luzzone dam in Ticino Switzerland is home to the world's tallest artificial climbing wall

The Diga di Luzzone dam in Ticino Switzerland is home to the world's tallest artificial climbing wall

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Location

Diga di Luzzone is the dam at the west end of the Lago di Luzzone reservoir located in Ticino, Switzerland.

Diga di Luzzone is the dam at the west end of the Lago di Luzzone reservoir located in Ticino, Switzerland

Description

Diga di Luzzone is home to the tallest artificial climbing wall in the world. A German climbing hold manufacturer installed over 650 artificial holds and bolts in the late 90's. The route covers a vertical distance of 165 meters, going from the base of the dam to the top. Climbers climb over the railing in the centre of the dam as they top the five pitch route.

Kyle and Shane Murdoch unlock the ladder to start climbing the Diga di Luzzone

20 Swiss francs per climber plus 100 Swiss franc deposit gets you the key to unlock the ladder that gives you access to the first pitch. Climbers should sign a waiver and pay the fee at Ristorante Luzzone, located at the top of the dam. Double check the hours of the restaurant before you go to make sure someone will be there to give you the key.

There is easy road access to the restaurant at the top of the dam as well as the start of the climb at the base. Friends and spectators can walk across the dam and greet you as you climb over the railing.

Kyle and Shane Murdoch greet spectators at the top of the Diga di Luzzone climb in Switzerland

Route beta

165m (540’) – 5 pitches (5.7, 5.8, 10a, 10a, 10b) – Sport

Each station has two quick links and a rail to stand on. The last anchor is built into the railing at the top.

At Diga di Luzzone, each climbing belay station has two quick links and a rail to stand on

A 50m rope is long enough to climb the route. You will require a longer rope or two ropes if you plan to rap off.

Once you have the key from the restaurant, drive back to the bottom of the dam. Unlock the ladder at the base of the climb to access the first holds. The route traverses to the left in the middle. There are a couple of extra stations to the left so you can rap straight down from the top.

Looking down from the middle of the Diga di Luzzone climb. It transitions from slab to overhanging

The route slowly transitions from slab (pitches 1 & 2) to overhanging (pitches 4 & 5).

The climb has lots of holds and is well protected.

The Diga di Luzzone climb has lots of holds and is well protected

Kyle and Shane Murdoch have fun near the top of the Diga di Luzzone climb in Switzerland

Descent

You can rap straight down from the top or have a friend meet you at the top with the car.

Kyle and Shane Murdoch top out at the guard rail finish line of Diga di Luzzone sport climb in Switzerland

Climbers: Kyle Murdoch & Shane Murdoch

Words: Kyle Murdoch  |  Photos: Shane Murdoch

3/7/2016 11:46 AM
Posted in Climbing By Kyle Murdoch

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Trace

posted on 1/15/2017 6:49 PM
How many quickdraws were required for this climb?

Richard Baldwin

posted on 1/24/2017 11:14 AM
Guys
What time of year did you climb?
Also how long did it take and did you stay locally?
Thanks
Richard

Shane

posted on 1/25/2017 9:47 AM
Hi Richard and Trace,
We did the climb in August. We drove up on a day trip from Milan. The drive from Milan to the dam was about 2.5 hours. The climb itself took 2 hours. We were picked up at the top of the dam so we didn't have to rap down which would add a bit of extra time. I think we used 16 draws plus 2 anchor kits.
Shane

Richard Baldwin

posted on 5/2/2017 8:57 AM
Did you need to queue to climb / was it busy?
Were the top pitches bitches - or was it simply the exposure taking them to 6B?
Richard

Andrew

posted on 6/7/2017 1:40 AM
What is the distance between the stations? how long must be a rope to climb down? Rope of 60 meters is enough?

Tim Claydon

posted on 6/29/2017 8:37 AM
Great climb, completed 26.06.2017

However the road is currently closed due to a landslide therefore you currently need to walk in and out and then climb it.

Rich Baldwin

posted on 7/6/2017 1:05 AM
Tim

We are going out in august to do this. How long did it take? Did you have it all to yourself? Any tips?

Did you also climb locally too?

Any pointers would be useful

Many thanks

Richard

Rich Baldwin

posted on 7/6/2017 1:09 AM
Hi Tim
I'm heading out in august to do this so hopefully the road will be sorted

Any tips? Did you have it all to yourself?

What time does the restaurant open to pay etc.

Did you also climb locally on other routes?

If you could spare me a bit of time any feedback would be great.

Thanks

Richard

Barak

posted on 8/21/2017 8:56 AM
1.I have no experience at all, Is it possible?
Do i need any support for beginners.
2.how can i make contact with a guide (i would like to come in about 4 weeks)?

Mitsuru Nishi

posted on 12/11/2017 1:15 AM
Does anyone know who manages the dam climb?
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