Climbing the Diga di Luzzone
The Diga di Luzzone dam in Ticino Switzerland is home to the world's tallest artificial climbing wall
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Diga di Luzzone is the dam at the west end of the Lago di Luzzone reservoir located in Ticino, Switzerland.
Diga di Luzzone is home to the tallest artificial climbing wall in the world. A German climbing hold manufacturer installed over 650 artificial holds and bolts in the late 90's. The route covers a vertical distance of 165 meters, going from the base of the dam to the top. Climbers climb over the railing in the centre of the dam as they top the five pitch route.
20 Swiss francs per climber plus 100 Swiss franc deposit gets you the key to unlock the ladder that gives you access to the first pitch. Climbers should sign a waiver and pay the fee at Ristorante Luzzone, located at the top of the dam. Double check the hours of the restaurant before you go to make sure someone will be there to give you the key.
There is easy road access to the restaurant at the top of the dam as well as the start of the climb at the base. Friends and spectators can walk across the dam and greet you as you climb over the railing.
165m (540’) – 5 pitches (5.7, 5.8, 10a, 10a, 10b) – Sport
Each station has two quick links and a rail to stand on. The last anchor is built into the railing at the top.
A 50m rope is long enough to climb the route. You will require a longer rope or two ropes if you plan to rap off.
Once you have the key from the restaurant, drive back to the bottom of the dam. Unlock the ladder at the base of the climb to access the first holds. The route traverses to the left in the middle. There are a couple of extra stations to the left so you can rap straight down from the top.
The route slowly transitions from slab (pitches 1 & 2) to overhanging (pitches 4 & 5).
The climb has lots of holds and is well protected.
You can rap straight down from the top or have a friend meet you at the top with the car.
Climbers: Kyle Murdoch & Shane Murdoch
Words: Kyle Murdoch | Photos: Shane Murdoch
Traceposted on 1/15/2017 6:49 PM
Richard Baldwinposted on 1/24/2017 11:14 AM
What time of year did you climb?
Also how long did it take and did you stay locally?
Shaneposted on 1/25/2017 9:47 AM
We did the climb in August. We drove up on a day trip from Milan. The drive from Milan to the dam was about 2.5 hours. The climb itself took 2 hours. We were picked up at the top of the dam so we didn't have to rap down which would add a bit of extra time. I think we used 16 draws plus 2 anchor kits.
Richard Baldwinposted on 5/2/2017 8:57 AM
Were the top pitches bitches - or was it simply the exposure taking them to 6B?
Andrewposted on 6/7/2017 1:40 AM
Tim Claydonposted on 6/29/2017 8:37 AM
However the road is currently closed due to a landslide therefore you currently need to walk in and out and then climb it.
Rich Baldwinposted on 7/6/2017 1:05 AM
We are going out in august to do this. How long did it take? Did you have it all to yourself? Any tips?
Did you also climb locally too?
Any pointers would be useful
Rich Baldwinposted on 7/6/2017 1:09 AM
I'm heading out in august to do this so hopefully the road will be sorted
Any tips? Did you have it all to yourself?
What time does the restaurant open to pay etc.
Did you also climb locally on other routes?
If you could spare me a bit of time any feedback would be great.
Barakposted on 8/21/2017 8:56 AM
Do i need any support for beginners.
2.how can i make contact with a guide (i would like to come in about 4 weeks)?
Mitsuru Nishiposted on 12/11/2017 1:15 AM
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