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James Lucas
James Lucas

James Lucas

Discipline: Climbing Team



In 2001, I moved to Yosemite Valley. I made beds at the lodge for a year before quitting my job and becoming obsessed with climbing. In the past 19 years I’ve transitioned from big wall climbing, to sport climbing, to bouldering, to being a Moonboard rat. I work as a free lance writer and photographer, traveling around the world to climb and document the sport.





1. Free climbing El Capitan’s Freerider (VI 5.13a) in a day leading and sending all the pitches.
2. The first ascent of Final Frontier (V 5.13b) in Yosemite
3. Surviving a 100 feet free solo fall in Joshua Tree National Park then returning to redpoint free solo the route.
4. Sending Midnight Lightning (V8) after a dedicated training cycle.
5. Onsighting Les Rivieres Pour Pres (500m 7b+) in Taghia Gorge, Morocco





+3" about 5'10"


Banner Photo by ®Eliza Earle and Bio Photo by ®Nina Williams